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No pie today, only repairs at Paris Coffee Shop in Fort Worth

Posted 9:35pm on Sunday, Jan. 08, 2017

The pie rack will be empty for a few days at the 90-year-old Paris Coffee Shop plate-lunch cafe in Fort Worth, dark while workers repair a kitchen ceiling that partially collapsed Thursday night.

A ceiling installed years ago buckled in the work area behind the grill, according to owner Mike Smith’s daugher, Shelle Smith Barber. She posted on Facebook late Thursday that the Smiths hope the repair is quick and tried to spread the word: “It will be a cold morning to drive down there and find out it is closed!”

The Paris, 704 W. Magnolia Ave., is located in what was originally built in 1941 as a Safeway grocery across Hemphill Street from the original Paris location. The restaurant is named for founder Vic Paris, but the Smith family has owned it for 85 years.

Last fall, Smith and the restaurant’s meringue pies were featured in Why Pie?, a prize-winning short film at the Lone Star Film Festival. The restaurant’s pies have been featured on the Food Network’s Ace of Cakes and listed among the nation’s best in USA Today, and the chicken-fried steak has been heralded in Jane and Michael Stern’s Roadfood series.

Bud Kennedy: 817-390-7538, bud@star-telegram.com, @EatsBeat. His column appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com.

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