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Texas brew review: Martin House’s new Salty Lady

Posted 1:27pm on Wednesday, Jul. 23, 2014

Salt isn’t an ingredient that leaps to mind when you think of beer or brewing.

It usually comes into the equation as a post-consumption counterbalance. Few things are more satisfying than a handful of salted peanuts to go with a cold pilsner on a hot day.

Or a juicy cheeseburger with a big glass of pale ale.

But Fort Worth’s Martin House Brewing isn’t afraid to introduce salt earlier in the process. With its popular Pretzel Stout, which was recently released in cans, salt is a meaningful but minor player. The bigger, bolder sweet flavors from the stout dominate that beer.

But in its most recent draft-only release, The Salty Lady, Martin House has fully embraced the salty goodness of a highly underrepresented but trending style.

Gose is an old German beer style that utilizes salt and ground coriander in the brewing process as well as souring bacteria to create a unique marriage of tart, spicy, sour and salty. All this may sound daunting to the taste buds, but The Salty Lady is light on the palate and the bite from the coriander, souring from the lactic cultures and drying qualities from the salt, creates a spot-on summertime treat.

It might sound strange to compare the two, but Salty Lady is a bit like drinking lemon-lime Gatorade — if lemon-lime Gatorade had depth, complexity, nuance and alcohol.

Real Ale also just released a gose as its 18 th anniversary beer in cans and brand-new Collective Brewing Project in Fort Worth has considered brewing a gose also. Look for national breweries to follow suit if the trend continues.

The Salty Lady is a limited release, so it likely won’t last more than a month. You can find it on draft at The Flying Saucer Fort Worth, The Bearded Lady, The Pour House, The Local, Rodeo Goat, T&P Tavern and Zio Carlo, among others. Central Market also has it available for growler fills. Check Martin House’s Facebook page for updates.

Quick sips

Homebrew for Heroes at Rahr: Local brewers are honoring troops by providing beer upon their return from duty. Homebrew for Heroes will be at Rahr & Sons Brewing on Saturday to raise money with a raffle and merchandise for sale. A battle-flown flag will be presented to owner Fritz Rahr in honor of the brewery’s support.

Have a question, comment or Texas brew bulletin for Scooter? Shoot him an email at texasbrew@dfw.com.

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