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First look: Melt Ice Creams in Fort Worth

Posted 5:08pm on Thursday, Apr. 24, 2014

Nestled next to an auto-service shop and across from a convenience store at the intersection of Rosedale and Alston avenues is a little yellow building that’s now the home of Melt Ice Creams, the newest addition to the burgeoning food scene on Fort Worth’s Near Southside.

Kari Crowe’s homemade ice cream shop is off the beaten path as far as that scene goes — most of the action is a couple of blocks south on Magnolia — but Crowe’s ice cream is a little off the beaten path, too, and her tiny shop (which continues the bright-yellow theme inside, right down to the spoons, with some black accents) brings a little sunshine to the area.

A Near Southside resident herself, Crowe told Indulge , the Star-Telegram’s luxury magazine, that she thought something sweet was missing from the area. She was ready for a career change, and she’d received compliments on her homemade ice cream, so she decided to open a small store in a former coffee shop. She took some inspiration from Robbie Werner of nearby Stir Crazy Baked Goods (which was featured in DFW.com’s “Life of Pie” story in late 2012), road-tripping through the South, visiting ice-cream shops in other states to learn as much as she could about the business.

Melt, which had its grand opening on Saturday, was generating social-media buzz well beforehand. We dropped by on Tuesday afternoon to check out the simple but funky interior (yellow chairs and tables, with an old church pew providing seating along the west wall) and the locally-sourced ice cream. The menu isn’t big — there were only six flavors listed Tuesday — but there’s an emphasis on quality over quantity here.

Cup of Texas, a coffee ice cream made with Avoca Coffee’s dark-roast Noir, had a subtle but noticeable coffee flavor that should appeal to java addicts. Sweet Bees, a honey ice cream was a lot more upfront with sweet, bold flavor that was almost like taking a spoonful of honey from a jar. Good stuff.

One of Crowe’s more adventurous flavors, Berry Basil, had strong herbal accents with just enough sweetness from the berry jam to set off the basil without being cloying. Chocolate Chocolate, made with Dude, Sweet Chocolate had a delicious richness to it.

Servings range from small (one scoop, $3.50) to large (three scoops, $6.50); waffle cones, made on-site, are $1 extra. Take-home pints are available for $8, but the small shop has so much charm that we’d rather have our ice cream there. The shop is at 954 W. Rosedale Ave., 682-710-2220; once you know you’re looking for a yellow building, it pretty much jumps out at you. Check it out on Facebook or Instagram.

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