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Eats Beat: Mississippi sisters serve don’t-miss Southern cooking

Posted 11:08am on Tuesday, Feb. 25, 2014

Arlington’s barbecue sisters set me straight right away.

“This ain’t Memphis barbecue — this is Mississippi barbecue,” Barbara Jones said, handing over a huge platter of pork ribs deep in thick, sweet, slightly spicy sauce.

At Sistah’s Mississippi Style BBQ, Jones and Grinda Coleman cook the way their mother did back home in Jackson, Miss.

They smoke barbecue ribs, brisket and links over a combination of pecan and charcoal. Fried chicken is peppered and battered just right.

Sweet beans are seasoned with green pepper and onion. Collard greens, yams and red beans-and-rice all taste straight from the South.

Basically, it’s a take-out ribs and chicken stand that has everything in one little three-table lunch counter, plus cakes and sweet potato pie.

The sisters opened their tiny restaurant last fall, taking over a small pizza stand on West Arkansas Lane between Fielder Road and Davis Street.

In a neighborhood already blessed with Fork in the Road and Chop House Burgers, Sistah’s adds soul food flavor and Southern charm to the mix.

If you only try the barbecue, you’re missing the fried chicken daily and fried catfish Fridays.

Mardi Gras specials this week include gumbo and shrimp.

Sistah’s is open Tuesdays through Saturdays for take-out lunch and dinner, Sundays for lunch at 1420 W. Arkansas Lane, 817-801-4428, sistahsbbq .com.

• A week from Mardi Gras, we’re short on Cajun specials.

Razzoo’s Cajun Cafes, including the flashy new Alliance Town Center location, are serving oysters for $8.99 per dozen and have special prices on the stuffed jalapeño “rat toes” and fried pickles; razzoos.com.

Boo-Rays of New Orleans, known for its Fat Tuesday parties, is selling from 100 to 300 pounds of crawfish a day and will have more all week; northwest Fort Worth or Hudson Oaks, booraysofnew orleans.com.

Copeland’s of New Orleans has a special Mardi Gras king-cake cheesecake along with its regular menu of New Orleans specials, breakfasts and Sunday brunch items. Call 48 hours ahead for Cajun fried turkey; 1400 Plaza Place, Southlake Town Square, southlakecopelands.com.

• The best Tex-Mex hole-in-the-wall restaurant on Interstate 35W might be Tino’s, inside a former motel coffee shop at 4201 South Freeway.

It’s open for breakfast, lunch and dinner weekdays and Saturdays, breakfast and lunch Sundays; 817-920-9945.

Bud Kennedy's column appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com. 817-390-7538 Twitter: @EatsBeat Facebook: Bud Kennedy's Eats Beat Get alerts at RebelMouse.com/eats

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