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Eats Beat: This Moth has turned into a Bird

Posted 12:00am on Thursday, Dec. 19, 2013

The World’s Best Beer Place has opened a Fort Worth location.

Or at least Bird Cafe, new in Sundance Square, claims that a share of that title because it’s the Cowtown twin of Dallas’ Meddlesome Moth pub.

Co-author Stephen Beaumont, of The World Atlas of Beer, anointed the Moth not only for its beers but also for its menu of platters, a steak and “share plates,” lifting Bird above the typical craft beer bar.

Bird’s early menu favorites, all from the Moth, are the roast chicken, the elk-and-boar bangers-and-mash, the pot pies and the basic cheddar burger, all from Moth chef David McMillan’s menu.

The location has been completely remodeled from its days as the Flying Saucer Draught Emporium, which moved a block north.

The second-story upstairs dining room opens onto a new patio and fire pit overlooking Sundance Square Plaza. The downstairs bar now stretches along the plaza.

Bird will add lunches and brunch in January. More details on the food soon; for now, it’s open nights: 155 E. Fourth St., 817-332-2473, birdinthe.net.

• A little smoke couldn’t keep Campo Verde down.

The 30-year Pioneer Parkway landmark closed briefly Monday due to an electrical short, but reopened the next day with its 100,000-light Christmas display shining bright.

If you’ve never gone to Campo Verde, it’s a time-warp restaurant from 1983.

Margaritas come in a 27-ounce “fiesta” size. The “Cinco Cinco” nachos or fajitas ($16.50) come spilling off a huge platter. Or try the 1-pound rib-eye ($26).

Don’t let the mysterious, taxi-yellow cheese sauce scare you away. Go for the grilled dishes, huge portions, old-fashioned incandescent holiday lights and the toy train circling the dining room.

It’s open for lunch and dinner daily at 2918 W. Pioneer Parkway, near South Bowen Road in Dalworthington Gardens; 817-275-7003, campoverde.us.

• If you’re still looking for Christmas Day lunch plans, expect to wait.

Furr’s, Humperdink’s Restaurant in Arlington, the Iron Skillet Restaurant in Weatherford and Vance Godbey’s in Lakeside will take walk-ins, plus the Mercury ChopHouse prime steakhouse in Fort Worth.

Ruth’s Chris Steak House will open at 2 p.m., serving steak-and-lobster for $47.95. Ferre will also open at mid-afternoon.

Many bars such as the T&P Tavern plus the Rodeo Goat burger grill will open in late afternoon and serve their regular menu.

Bud Kennedy’s column appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com. 817-390-7538 Twitter: @EatsBeat Facebook: Bud Kennedy's Eats Beat Get alerts at RebelMouse.com/eats

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