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First bite: Grub Burger Bar in Dallas

Grub Burger Bar

4925 Greenville Ave.

Dallas

www.grubburgerbar.com


Posted 9:16am on Thursday, Dec. 05, 2013

Dallas’ Greenville Avenue is slowly becoming a fast-foodie’s street of dreams.

From the new-generation tacos at The Rusty Taco to the healthy fast-food at Start and the Philly cheesesteaks and food-truck-a-go-go at Truck Yard to the mostly gluten-free Company Cafe, Greenville has a little something for everyone. And you won’t have to take out a second mortgage to eat lunch here, either. (And that’s not even mentioning all the take-home, heat’n’eat options at Trader Joe’s, which just opened on Greenville, right across from Truck Yard.)

Now, there’s a new name to add to the growing Greenville roster or restaurants: Grub Burger Bar.

Well-known in its home base of College Station (and recently opened in Houston), Grub seems to be yet another joint offering its own revisionist take on the humble hamburger. It tops its burgers with trendy condiments like peanut butter, ghost chili sauce, chipotle aioli, and Applewood smoked bacon, which might make you wonder: do we really a need another gourmet burger joint in DFW?

But, judging from a first visit Saturday, maybe we should make room for at least one more.

Set on the ground floor of an office building at Energy Square, Grub, which opened last week, has the casual but slick feel of other upscale burger spots that have opened in recent years, such as Liberty Burger and Hopdoddy. And, like those places, you order at a counter but a server brings you your food (though, unlike Liberty, you can choose your own table).

The menu offers quite a few options for beef burgers ranging from the simple Front Porch (lettuce, mustard, mayo, buttered toasted bun, $6) to the Texas Luau (which tops its beef with braised pull pork, pineapple, grilled jalapeños, teriyaki and BBQ sauce, $7.50) and the OMG (Texas chili, skinny fries, cheddar cheese, onions, mustard, $7.50). The $7 Ghost Burger, with ghost chili sauce, jalapeños, and pepper jack cheese, can come with an ice-cream chaser for a buck extra. Also, for $1 more, they’ll throw a fried egg on top of any burger.

But it’s in their non-beef burger options where Grub really has put on their thinking cap. There are five options under their “Burgers That Don’t Moo” banner, including the Jive Turkey (ground, pesto-seasoned turkey breast, bacon, Swiss cheese, sprouts, avocado, chipotle aioli, $7.75) and the Hippie Chickpea (ground chickpea and eggplant burger, roasted red-pepper mayo, red onions, arugula, goat cheese, tabbouleh, $7.75). There are also two seafood burgers, including Burger of the Sea (ahi tuna, sprouts, arugula, pickled ginger, wasabi-teriyaki dressing, $9.50), and the one I tried, the Wild Alaskan Salmon Burger with avocado, ancho chile, black bean-and-corn medley, cilantro, and tequila-lime aioli, $8.50).

Unlike in most seafood sandwiches, the salmon is chopped and ground so it looks and feels more like a burger. But it’s the toppings that really make it shine. That the buns are baked from scratch every hour helps, too. (The fifth non-beef burger is ground chicken, not something you see on menus every day.)

Of course, like everyone else these days, Grub offers sweet potato fries ($2.50) but theirs are dusted with rosemary salt, which makes them addictive. Wash it all down with a milk shake ($4.50), in flavors such as nutella, salted caramel, espresso-hazelnut, and key lime pie, and you can die happy. The key lime pie shake is magic in a glass.

While Grub has more than enough to keep the kids happy, mom and dad can get busy at the bar with spiked milkshakes with names like Tipsy Colada and Bourbon & Caramel (both $6.50) as well as some of Texas’ best beers including Revolver Blood & Honey, Peticolas Golden Opportunity, Lakewood Lager, and Rahr & Sons Ugly Pug.

So, the next time you’re thinking there are way too many new burger places popping up in DFW, head over to Grub and remember that there’s always room for one more -- as long as their doing it right.

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