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Weekend newsletter

Weekend newsletter

Dining review: Tommy’s Hamburger Grill on Forest Park Boulevard

Tommy’s Hamburger Grill

2455 Forest Park Blvd., Fort Worth

817-920-1776; www.tommyshamburgergrill.com

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday and Sunday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday & Saturday

Posted 11:45am on Thursday, Oct. 24, 2013

Surely you’re familiar with Tommy’s Hamburger Grill, a Fort Worth stalwart that has been filling up Cowtown stomachs with big burgers for 30 years. You might not be aware, though, that in addition to the Tommy’s on bustling Camp Bowie Boulevard, there’s a new Tommy’s in a congenially quiet neighborhood on mostly residential Forest Park Boulevard, across the road from Black Rooster Bakery and Sera.

The new Tommy’s has an unfussy but pleasant patio with half a dozen tables, making it a nice spot for an alfresco lunch on an October afternoon.

Located a hop, skip and a jump from TCU, there’s a purple theme going on at Tommy’s south. Our waitress was clad in purple, the walls of one of the rooms are splashed with purple, and the daily specials are scrawled in chalk on a purple board. Playing to that theme, customers with a TCU ID are treated to a free iced tea.

The Tommy’s menu is familiar but it added a few new sandwiches when it opened the new location. The new green chile goat cheeseburger ($8.99) has quickly become the biggest seller. It’s served on a whole-wheat bun that we found a bit drier than the regular bun, but the overall texture of the sandwich was juicy and moist (credit goes partly to that thick, hand-formed patty that always makes Tommy’s a contender in our biennial Burger Battle). The mild chiles were sliced about half an inch long and piled liberally atop a spread of goat cheese. A faint sour flavor from the goat cheese was appealing in a piquant way and we’re not at all surprised at the burger’s popularity.

Our fave, though, is still the blue cheese burger ($8.59), with heavy mustard, tomato, pickle and raw onion. The blue cheese really comes through strongly without overwhelming the rest.

We paid a bit extra for onion rings with one burger. Cut thick and nicely crunchy, they were worth it, especially since some of the skin-on fries that came with the other sandwich were an off-putting grayish shade.

Another new item that is selling well is the turkey Reuben ($8.59). Turkey and sauerkraut were piled high on a base of rye bread and topped with a slice of Swiss before the sandwich was grilled. We had expected Russian dressing on the sandwich (though it was plenty moist without it) and asked the waitress if this was an intentional variation on the Reuben formula or an oversight. She trotted off to confer with the cook and came back to report sheepishly that “the cook zoned out.” No matter, we really liked this sandwich and will be ordering it whenever we’re not ordering a blue cheese burger.

There’s a small bar at the new Tommy’s selling wine and beer and even one draft brew, Coors Light. Picture us lifting a glass to the new Tommy’s.

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