Eats Beat: Old-school Shaw’s joins the Fort Worth designer-burger trend

Posted 8:53am on Tuesday, Sep. 24, 2013

In 35 years running bar-and-grills, David Shaw has never been trendy.

At his old Abernathy’s and now at the very similar Shaw’s Patio Bar & Grill, his restaurants are more comfortable than cutting-edge.

That’s why it’s such a surprise that even Shaw’s is adding specialty burgers and craft beers.

“We get all ages, and a lot of people want something new in burgers and beers,” said Shaw, coping with chef-driven gastropubs and gourmet coffee cafes in both directions on West Magnolia Avenue.

Shaw’s will add six craft beers for a total of 18 and “gourmet up” the burgers and hot dogs, he said.

Along with new dishes, he has added retro items: nachos, queso and appetizers from his old Abernathy’s menu, and pasta specials and salads from his in-laws’ old restaurant in the same space, Scampi’s Mediterranean Cafe.

The Diakis family’s beloved lasagna has even made a comeback as an occasional lunch special.

Shaw’s also serves Scampi’s Greek salad, and its house dressing and signature dessert, walnut cake.

Shaw’s is also expanding brunch to both Saturday and Sunday, adding migas and portobello items.

The weekend brunch has become a busy favorite on Magnolia, where Shaw’s started as a cafe serving burgers and handspun Blue Bell shakes and has become the all-ages, all-occasions standby.

Shaw’s experience helps. His service is more reliable than at some nearby startups.

Shaw’s first restaurants were on West Berry Street near TCU and on Camp Bowie Boulevard.

“Magnolia is much more of a walking street,” he said.

“People poke their head in, look at the menu, then maybe go look at another place.

“Then they come back.”

Shaw’s is open for lunch-only Sundays and Mondays, lunch and dinner Tuesdays through Saturdays at 1051 W. Magnolia Ave., 817-926-2116, http://

Instead of Naples, it’s NY-style

The Zoli’s NY Pizza motto says it all.

“If you hate Cane Rosso,” the new Dallas restaurant says, “you’ll love Zoli’s!”

For customers who want a crisp, thin-crust New York-style pizza-by-the-slice, Cane Rosso Neapolitan pizza baker Jay Jerrier has opened Zoli’s near the Bishop Arts District in the Oak Cliff neighborhood west of downtown Dallas.

It’s like a typical pizza-and-pasta stand’s pie, but crisp and made with first-rate sauces and cheeses. The menu offers both thin crust and medium “Grandma style.”

For more, visit for a podcast with Jerrier.

Zoli’s is open Tuesdays through Saturdays for lunch and dinner and Sundays for lunch at 202 W. Davis St., Dallas, 214-942-9654,

Bud Kennedy's Eats Beat appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in 817-390-7538 Twitter: @EatsBeat Facebook: Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat Get alerts at

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