Eats Beat: Texans love our migas, no matter what’s in them

Posted 11:08am on Friday, Sep. 20, 2013

What’s in your weekend-morning migas?

And what makes them different from chilaquiles?

The two dishes don’t seem different at all in some restaurants, to the point where the server can’t even tell one eggs-cheese-and-tortillas combination from another.

But two new restaurants have drastically different takes on the two dishes, which is as it should be.

First, some definitions:

Migas (“crumbs”) is the Tex-Mex term for a breakfast dish of scrambled eggs with fried strips of tortillas, peppers, onions and maybe cheese, chicken or chorizo.

Chilaquiles (“chiles with herbs,” from the Nahua people) is Latin America’s term for a breakfast dish with lots of cheese, peppers and fried tortilla chips, maybe or maybe not with eggs, chicken or chorizo.

• At the new Little Red Wasp Kitchen + Bar, a weekend chilaquiles breakfast starts with a huge helping of fresh-fried tortilla bits from Rudy’s Tortillas in Dallas, Jack cheese and three eggs, with local Mrs. Renfro’s jalapeño green salsa; 808 Main St., 817-877-3111, littleredwasp.com.

• That could not be more different from the weekend migas at the new Trevino’s Comida Mexicana.

Trevino’s, an old-timey Tex-Mex restaurant, serves a pile of eggs with American cheese, peppers and bits of fried tortillas, all in a mild red sauce.

Alongside, Trevino’s serves a helping of notably fluffy refried beans; 1812 Montgomery St., 817-731-8226, trevinosftworth.com.

Some other examples:

•  Benito’s, ranked on Texas Monthly’s list of best Tex-Mex restaurants, serves very distinctive chilaquiles and migas.

The chilaquiles are a hangover-curing plate full of fried tortilla pieces and white cheese. The migas are more like eggs Mexicana with fried tortilla chips included.

(Don’t go early. Benito’s opens at 10 a.m. weekends and stays open till 2 a.m.; 1450 W. Magnolia Ave., 817-332-8633, benitosmexican.com.)

• On the other hand, Joe T. Garcia’s and sibling Esperanza’s Cafe & Bakery serve almost identical chilaquiles and migas.

The primary difference is that the migas have chicken (or chorizo), and the chilaquiles can be made with green sauce; 2201 N. Commerce St. and next door at 2122 N. Main St., with a south-side Esperanza’s at 1601 Park Place; joets.com.

A winner by the windmill

A landmark steakhouse on Texas 199 has sputtered to life again, and this time Jax Ranch House & BBQ seems to have the experience to stick around.

The owners of simple Alba’s Italian Restaurant in Lake Worth reopened the former Iron Spurs, and the Bauta family, cousins to the owners of Trattoria Alba in Manhattan, added its own touch.

A “Jax Chicken” platter one recent night featured a grilled chicken breast topped with crumbled feta, tomatoes and onions, with a side for $9.95.

Jax Ranch House also serves steaks, barbecued pork ribs and (when the Bautas get the hang of it) brisket from the 63-year-old pit. It’s open daily for lunch and dinner at 5532 Jacksboro Highway, by the windmill in Sansom Park; 817-439-9090.

Bud Kennedy's Eats Beat appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com. 817-390-7538

Twitter: @EatsBeat Facebook: Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat Get alerts at RebelMouse.com/eats

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