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Eats Beat: Cane Rosso and Lonesome Dove updates

Posted 12:00am on Thursday, Aug. 22, 2013

For il Cane Rosso, it was the second bite at Fort Worth.

Owner Jay Jerrier leased a former gourmet grocery for a new Cane Rosso pizzeria this week, a year after passing up the same West Magnolia Avenue space.

Every time he came looking for a location, Jerrier said, “I’d sit at Brewed and look at [the former] Ryan’s and say, ‘That’d sure make a great Cane Rosso.’”

When he saw Ryan’s closing notice on Facebook, he reached for his phone: “I learned that when you see something you want, grab it.”

The new Cane Rosso will open by winter, or as soon as a woodburning Neapolitan pizza oven is delivered from Italy, he said. The Ryan’s meat counter will become the bar and beer cooler, and the grocery floor becomes the dining room.

The polished “R” out front will switch for the emblem of Cane Rosso (”red dog”), he said.

Cane Rosso will continue to serve Thursdays and Friday nights in Fort Worth at Times Ten Cellars, 1100 Foch St.

“We looked for a location there but it was too expensive,” Jerrier said.

“The south side feels like Deep Ellum — cool restaurants and bars, a supportive neighborhood and the medical district customers at lunch. It’s a great fit.”

The original Cane Rosso location is at 2612 Commerce St. in Dallas. A second location is open at 7328 Gaston Ave., and Jerrier also has opened Zoli’s, a New York pizza tavern, at 202 W. Davis St. near the Bishop Arts District in Dallas’ Oak Cliff neighborhood.

Come back soon, Dove

Lonesome Dove Western Bistro started it all.

Until chef Tim Love won an 2006 episode of Iron Chef America, the rest of America paid no attention to cowboy cuisine in Fort Worth.

That’s why it hurts Fort Worth to lose Lonesome Dove, even for two months, while Love repairs and rebuilds after a Tuesday morning fire.

All week before the fire, the Dove was full of Restaurant Week diners carving into Love’s signature garlic-stuffed tenderloins or trying pastry chef Sally Schwartz’s dessert sampler.

One night last week, the steak was perfect and the chilled corn-cucumber-poblano summer salad was a complete surprise. Diners at other tables crowed about the steaks. A reader stopped me and said, “This place is great!”

Even with the ashes still hot, Love was donating the stored food to a food bank and trying to figure a way to help charity.

Lonesome Dove will reopen in 60 days, “not one day longer, and I want it to be sooner,” he said, still sweeping ashes and moving smoky dinnerware.

The restaurant will continue to serve private parties, he said. That kitchen wasn’t affected.

Meanwhile, try a Love Shack burger nearby, or dinner at the Woodshed Smokehouse in Fort Worth or Queenie’s Steakhouse in Denton.

The Dove and Love’s quail quesadillas will be back before Thanksgiving; 2406 N. Main St., lonesomedovebistro.com.

(Love’s other former Love Shack on the Bluebonnet Circle will reopen by October as Fred’s Texas Cafe TCU.)

Cultural District Thai

Happy Bowl Thai is stepping up.

The Suthamtewakul family’s overachieving little White Settlement restaurant will open its second location at 3431 W. Seventh St., in a strip shopping center near the University of North Texas medical school.

Happy Bowl is known for spicy Thai dishes and bargain prices. The weekday lunch specials cost $7.95 including soup or eggroll and drink, and most dinners are $9-$10.

It’ll open within weeks on West Seventh Street, then begin work on a Southlake location. The original is at 8149 White Settlement Road at Meadow Park Drive, 817-246-0977.

Not quite the same

Brownstone Restaurant stepped on some big toes this week, but apologized.

The Currie Street restaurant sent an email about “Restaurant Week.”

Except the restaurant isn’t part of the annual Lena Pope Home benefit by that name, and isn’t donating the same $7 of each $35 dinner to charity.

Brownstone will donate $5 of each $35 dinner this weekend to the Tarrant Area Food Bank. (The food bank originally listed the gift on Facebook as $1. A spokeswoman blamed a mixup.)

Chef Vince Mack’s menu features tenderloin, chicken or fish with an appetizer and dessert; 840 Currie St., 817-332-1555, brownstonefw.com.

Last call

The official Restaurant Week promotion continues at 17 Tarrant County restaurants.

This is the last week for Bonnell’s ($45), Eddie V’s Prime Seafood ($45), Mercury Chop House ($35) and Piola ($35).

(FYI: The initial 2000 Restaurant Week was for the food bank, but it declined in 2001. Lena Pope Home stepped in.)

Bud Kennedy's Eats Beat appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com. 817-390-7538 Twitter: @EatsBeat Facebook: Bud Kennedy's Eats Beat Get alerts at RebelMouse.com/eats

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