This is the summer of barbecue.
Billy’s Oak Acres BBQ is the latest new-generation barbecue shop, bringing brisket, ribs and buttermilk pie to a 50-year-old barbecue-and-beer stop on North Las Vegas Trail near Loop 820.
Pitmaster Billy Woodrich fired up the old brick pit and started turning out meats, sides and pies at Oak Acres, a classic Texas barbecue tavern with oak paneling, beer signs, a back yard and a parking lot full of work trucks.
Along with Jambo’s in Rendon and BBQ on the Brazos in Cresson, this is the must-try new barbecue restaurant in town. It’s not at the level of Pecan Lodge or Lockhart Smokehouse, the Texas Monthly favorites in Dallas, but Oak Acres’ near-perfect brisket sets a new standard for northwest Tarrant County.
Besides the brisket, served on butcher paper with a light drizzle of sauce, Oak Acres also serves a simple commercial sausage at lunch, adding pork ribs at dinner. (Chicken-fried steak is a Thursday-only special.)
Side dishes include a skin-on redskin potato salad. Desserts such as buttermilk pie or banana pudding come from pastry chef Susan Eddins, who used to bake for much-traveled chef Grady Spears.
Oak Acres is at 1620 N. Las Vegas Trail, where former pitmaster James Quave used to smoke up barbecue before the old Hip Pocket Theater outdoor shows; 817-367-2200, facebook.com/BillysOakAcresBbq.
Off and racing
Not that we needed another racing-themed sports grill, but Ricky Bobby Sports Saloon is open.
Owned by the Houston-based Rick’s striptease club chain — and not connected in any way with the character from Talladega Nights — Ricky Bobby essentially provides the strip-club experience with loud music, just no pole.
Overly solicitous servers wear cheerleaderlike halter-top outfits. The giant but unimaginative menu includes a burger pressed between two grilled-cheese-and-bacon sandwiches, and a chocolate cake made with walnuts and M&Ms.
Ricky Bobby serves food until 11:45 nightly at 2200 N.E. Loop 820 (at Mark IV Parkway), Fort Worth; 817-624-3759, rickybobbyftw.com
Comings and goings
Open this week: Bravo! Italian, an Ohio-based chain formerly in Arlington, now in Trinity Commons at 3010 S. Hulen St., 817-763-0145, bravoitalian.com.
Newly closed: Ryan’s Fine Grocery on West Magnolia Avenue — the prices were way too “fine” — and Iron Spurs Bar & Grill in Sansom Park, along with corporate cousin The Cove at Eagle Mountain Lake, both reorganizing.
Closed in Dallas: Jack’s Southern Comfort, the latest effort for former Cowtown Diner chef Scott Jones. He plans to reopen near Lakewood or Casa Linda.
Bud Kennedy's Eats Beat appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com. 817-390-7538