Hopdoddy vs. Kincaid’s
(1) Hopdoddy Burger Bar, 6030 Luther Lane, Dallas, vs. (2) Kincaid’s, 4901 Camp Bowie Blvd., Fort Worth
This fight was so nasty, we shouldda flown these burgers out to Vegas, sold tickets and charged people $49.95 to watch it on Pay-per-view. It was the ultimate newcomer vs. old-timer matchup — Austin’s cheffy Hopdoddy against Fort Worth’s keeper of classic, Kincaid’s. Ah, but this wasn’t just any Kincaid’s burger. To help level the playing field against H-Daddy’s creations, we chose the Cowtown Deluxe, about the closest thing you’ll find to a chef-inspired burger at Kincaid’s. Topped with house-made pimento cheese, this thing would surely put Hopdoddy in its place — sit back, you sprouty Austin hippies, and let Fort Worth show ya how it’s done.
For the most part, Hopdoddy’s Magic Shroom burger held up well, falling apart toward the very end but not before we got in several bites of the generously seasoned, grass-fed patty, grilled mushrooms that we couldda sat there and eaten all day and a nicely salty basil pesto. We were a bit reluctant about the goat cheese. You know how goat cheese is — it can overpower everything. But this cheese had a mellow flavor that worked nicely with all the other components. Oh, yeah, the house-made challah-style buns, lightly toasted and dabbed with mayo, rocked too. Uh-oh, Kincaid’s.
When we unwrapped our Cowtown Deluxe, we marveled at its sloppy, disheveled glory. Grilled onions were spilling out here, grilled jalapeños there, pimento cheese everywhere. But by the third bite, what we had initially admired had become impossible to enjoy: The bottom bun had disintegrated, and the top bun was well on its way to joining it, prompting one of our judges to describe it as a “taco salad.” Absolutely in love with the sharp pimento, we ate the rest of the burger with a fork.
Both places delivered patties beyond our medium request, but Hopdoddy righted a wrong with its garlic/onion/yellow mustard seed seasoning. We couldn’t detect any seasoning on the Kincaid’s patty, and while we loved its flavor, Hopdoddy took it a step further, combining its patty’s hearty flavor with really, really good seasoning.
Hopdoddy wins. Darn hippies.