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Dining review: Papa Osh Gourmet Pizza in Colleyville

Papa Osh Gourmet Pizza

1101 Cheek-Sparger Road

Colleyville

817-281-6400; www.papaosh.com

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Saturday; closed Sunday


Posted 6:08pm on Tuesday, Jul. 30, 2013

Sometimes you just can’t wait for dessert. That’s why I have to start by saying that the homemade pistachio gelato ($3.99) at Papa Osh Gourmet Pizza in Colleyville is downright delectable.

I rarely see homemade pistachio gelato in a restaurant, if ever. Oshman Abusaad, owner of Papa Osh, claims to have the only homemade variety in these parts.

But there’s more to Papa Osh than gelato.

The place is half pizza and half Italian-everything-else, like calzones ($9.99-$11.99), subs ($4.99-$5.99) and pasta ($3.99-$7.99).

The list of appetizers is to the point: stuffed mushrooms ($4.99), sun-dried tomato hummus ($3.99) and the always-tempting garlic-flavored cheese breadsticks ($4.99).

Pizzas range from small ($6.99) to extra large ($15.99). If you’re ordering for two, a small pizza paired with an appetizer will be enough for most.

Customize your pie by choosing from more than 20 ingredients, four kinds of cheese (asiago, cheddar, feta and mozzarella) and three sauces (Alfredo, pesto and tomato). Or you can pick from Papa’s creations.

We were surprised to see a well-executed taco pizza on the menu. Osh pulls it off with soft dough, seasoned taco beef and a hint of spiciness.

The Zumba pizza, basically a vegetable pizza with asparagus, basil, mushrooms, tomatoes, olives and olive oil, is a hearty option, but nowhere near as seductive as the savory taco pie.

Other pizzas include the Molly with chicken, spinach and feta; the Hawaiian with Canadian bacon and pineapples in a tomato sauce; and the meat lover’s pizza, Papa Osh’s bestseller.

You’ll either love or hate the ricotta-stuffed ravioli in pesto cream sauce ($6.99), which isn’t as zesty as you might expect. Instead, the sauce has a lighter flavor, meant for those who can appreciate a pesto with an airy overtone.

If you’re looking for the most popular pasta at Papa Osh, that’d be the chicken Alfredo ($6.99).

Subs ($4.99) can be ordered with grilled chicken, roast beef, meatballs, portobello mushrooms, salami, smoked salmon, tuna or turkey. We recommend the meatball sandwich with seasoned meatballs on crispy bread.

This is a pizza place, so chances are you’ll be reheating leftovers a day or two later. The pizza, breadsticks and even the ravioli passed our test (in the oven). In fact, the breadsticks are even better the second time around.

And that’s great and all, but I think I’d rather eat leftover pistachio ice cream from a giant tub.

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