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Eats Beat: An Italian bakery-cafe in Keller mixes breakfast, Brooklyn

Posted 7:14am on Thursday, Jun. 06, 2013

Keller has a new restaurant, and I don’t mean a chicken stand.

That’s news all by itself. But Southlake also has a new local restaurant worth note, giving hope for better dining at both ends of Farm Road 1709.

The DeVivo Bros. Eatery is good news for Keller diners weary of long drives for brunch or a casual dinner.

John and Ralph DeVivo have captured the flavors of their Brooklyn heritage — Italian sausage, spicy marinara, breads and baked goods — and applied them to an all-day menu of breakfasts, lunches and dinners.

DeVivo wades into the bakery-cafe market, but with a chef’s touch. Breakfasts include blueberry-maple sausage or drop biscuits. Even the burger is notably lean and flavorful, a step up from typical diner fare.

Baked goods range from homemade cheesecakes to a daily selection of desserts including Italian cream cake or chocolate-peanut-butter cake.

DeVivo Bros. is BYOB. It’s open Mondays through Saturdays all day, Sundays for breakfast and lunch Sundays; 750 S. Main St., Keller, 817-431-6890, devivobroseatery.com.

Fig and fire

TruFire Kitchen & Bar is a perfect fit in the familiar Southlake Town Square bar vacated by Jack’s and the notorious X’s-and-O’s.

But TruFire is a big step up in menu and style. It’s the second location for restaurateur Jay Clark and chef David Kazarian, refining what they learned in Frisco.

Diners are already coming back for the fig-and-glazed-pecan salad, the shrimp diablo or steak diablo pizzas, and the lemon-blueberry pound cake.

Burgers are saturated with cheddar and sauce, but there’s a good burger beneath. (Ask for sauce on the side.)

Also, this is not a drinks column, but I am aware that some customers also come for the blackberry smash or raspberry lemonade.

TruFire is open daily for lunch and dinner; 1239 Main St., 817-488-6280, trufire.us.

Notable openings

•  Piranha Killer Sushi’s Fort Worth location will reopen Friday with a complete makeover. General manager Hieu Truong described a more open, brighter restaurant with a “zen-like” appeal; open daily for lunch and dinner, 335 W. Third St., 817-348-0200, piranhakillersushi.com.

•  Dunkin’ Donuts, newly resurgent, unveils its glazed-doughnut bacon-and-egg sandwich Friday and celebrates “National Doughnut Day.” Locations include far west Fort Worth, Hurst and Southlake; dunkindonuts.com.

•  Austin-based Torchy’s Tacos is scheduled to open next weekend in Southlake’s Kimball Crossing, 2175 E. Southlake Blvd. Dallas-based Howard Wang’s China Grill is also expected to open next week in the Shops at Southlake, 1471 E. Southlake Blvd.

• The second Planet Burger, already building a following in burger-happy Cleburne, has opened a second location at 112 Southeast Parkway, Azle. The burgers are served on fresh-baked buns.

•  Russo’s New York Pizzeria, a brick-oven competitor to Grimaldi’s or Corky’s in Arlington, announced four Tarrant County locations to come, but no specifics. The first local Russo’s is at 700 E. Campbell Road, Richardson; nypizzeria.com.

Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com. 817-390-7538 Facebook: Bud Kennedy’s Eats Beat Twitter: @EatsBeat Get alerts at RebelMouse.com/eats

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