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Dining review: Central Deli & Grill in Bedford

Central Deli & Grill

2901 Central Drive

Bedford

817-545-6596

Hours: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday through Friday; 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Saturday


Posted 4:40pm on Thursday, May. 30, 2013

It doesn’t get simpler than Central Deli & Grill, a combination American and Mediterranean restaurant located inside a gas station in Bedford.

In fact, Central Deli made it into Fort Worth, Texas magazine’s “Back To Basics” feature a year ago — 30 of the magazine’s “favorite soup and sandwich spots.”

The menu is divided by Mediterranean, American, and breakfast foods — about four items on each side. The rest are side items, like the smoky hummus with pita bread ($3.99) and stuffed grape leaves ($3.99).

We tried both the Mediterranean and American dishes.

From the Mediterranean side, the gyro includes seasoned lamb and beef, served with a cool tzatziki sauce, along with onions and tomatoes. It’s simple, but it works. And it’s a customer favorite.

The kofta kebab ($4.49) is the same way, char-grilled ground beef with spices, topped with onion, parsley, and tomatoes. It has an herbal and slightly sweet flavor. Shish-kebabs ($4.49) are another option.

The falafel platter ($7.99), served with falafel patties, a Greek salad, and pita bread, is just as simple but nowhere near as satisfying as the meat dishes. And the tahini sauce is dull compared to the tzatziki in the gyro.

On the American side, the fried chicken sandwich ($3.49) is a breaded patty topped with lettuce, tomatoes, and mayo. The chicken is juicy and a little crispy, but at such a small portion, you’d need two to get by.

The steak burger, which, by its looks, could easily pose as just another ordinary hamburger, had a simple seasoning with an awesome char-grilled flavor.

The Philly cheesesteak, with melted cheese, was loaded with tender little steaks. Like the hamburger, it’d be a mistake to go off looks alone. Crunchy peppers and plenty of mushrooms keep your hands and mouth busy.

You can opt for fries on any of the American dishes. They’re limp, but there’s something oddly satisfying about eating hot, floppy fries inside a gas station out of a little white paper basket.

Most everything is a bargain, and prices are even better on Mondays when gyros are only $2.99; and Wednesdays when the half-pound steak burgers are only $3.99; and Sundays when Philly cheesesteaks are only $3.99.

At those prices, you could have enough cash for lunch and still have some leftover to pay for gas.

Is it one of my favorite “sandwich spots”? That’s a stretch, but it’s definitely worth checking out if you’re in the area with a few bucks in your pocket.

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