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Gluten- and grease-free, Elote Kitchen is Tex-Mex for the ’burbs

Posted 12:00am on Tuesday, Apr. 30, 2013

Elote Mexican Kitchen is our first purely suburban taqueria.

It’s gringo-friendly, child-friendly and even gluten-free if you just avoid a flour tortilla.

There’s nothing bland about it. But the spice all comes from optional serrano “angry chiles,” a table “hot salt” and Yucatan-based El Yucateco sauces.

“Out here, we have to cater to all ages and people from all over the world,” said Cynthia Wilson Loeb, a success at her Oliva Italian Eatery nearby on North Beach Street in the squeaky-clean Woodland Springs subdivision.

“The hardest restaurant to open is Tex-Mex, because everybody has different taste.”

The Loebs and chef Andres Estrella decided on white queso over yellow, shredded chicken over grilled, and a chunky, mild salsa instead of smoky chipotle.

The menu offers Baja-style tacos ($2.49) or burritos ($6.49) with a choice of nine finely chopped or shredded slow-roasted or grilled meats.

Loeb is proud that the dishes are meticulously prepared and not oily or greasy. Even the nachos come with only a light dusting of shredded cotija cheese.

The rice is not fried, and no fillers or binders are used, keeping all the side dishes gluten-free, she said.

The elote name refers to the roasted corn ($2.99).

Loeb talked about her gluten-free cooking on a recent Martha Stewart Living satellite radio show.

Elote has 10 beers on tap and margaritas, but does not have the beer-hall atmosphere of other taco shops

Elote is open for lunch and dinner daily; 12584 N. Beach St., Fort Worth, 817-741-3600, website coming at elotemex.com

Neighbor Oliva Italian is an unpretentious neighborhood restaurant; 12377 Timberland Blvd., Fort Worth, 817-337-6999, olivaeatery.com.

A Cinco party--on May 4

One of our oldest Tex-Mex restaurants will throw one of the biggest Cinco de Mayo parties.

Granddaddy El Fenix Restaurants, originators of the “combination plate,” will celebrate Saturday afternoon and night at the flagship location, 1601 McKinney Ave. in downtown Dallas.

Neighbors Meso Maya and Taqueria La Ventana are co-hosts.

On Sunday, all Los Vaqueros restaurants in Fort Worth and Hudson Oaks will have street taco specials and complimentary tres leches cake.

The Queen returns

Dairy Queen, once the unofficial small-town “Texas stop sign,” is making a comeback.

DQs in north and west Fort Worth are consistently busy. A new DQ opened this week at 700 N. Industrial Blvd. in Euless, with another coming soon on North Tarrant Parkway in far north Fort Worth.

Dairy Queen’s new success comes from retro appeal, $5 combos (including ice cream) and the arrival of Orange Julius fruit smoothies in all locations.

(In my book, the chili dogs and ice cream are better than Sonic’s, evem before the mango-pineapple Julius.

Bud Kennedy's Eats Beat appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com. 817-390-7538 Facebook: Bud Kennedy's Eats Beat Twitter: @EatsBeat Get alerts at RebelMouse.com/eats

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