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Eats beat: Test the Waters menu Sunday morning for Bonnell specialties

Posted 12:20pm on Tuesday, Apr. 09, 2013

Waters is already crowded -- except early at lunch or at Sunday brunch.

Chef Jon Bonnell's new seafood house has been booked most weekends. But the time to go is 11 a.m., particularly to start Sunday morning with ceviche or wood-grilled oysters.

The Sunday morning menu ranges from redfish and trout to lobster omelets, mahi-mahi tacos or an eggs Benedict platter served on a crabcake instead of a muffin ($18).

For the non-seafaring, Waters also serves steak and eggs ($18) or chicken-fried rabbit loin and waffles with jalapeño-bacon cream gravy ($18). Breakfast sides include house-cured bacon and homemade sausage.

Besides the grilled oysters -- served in garlic-herb butter, New Orleans-style, or "barbecued" with guajillo sauce -- Waters also serves other regular lunch items such as Bonnell's signature andouille sausage gumbo, spicy tuna tacos, salads and a few basic landlubber dinner entrees such as a bone-in rib-eye or a pork chop with sweet potato-cheese grits.

Waters is open daily except Mondays for lunch and dinner starting at 11 a.m. It's at 2901 Crockett St., on the corner at Currie Street across from the forthcoming American F+B restaurant and the Brownstone Kitchen and Bar; 817-984-1110, waterstexas.com.

Also open: the Arlington area's first chef-driven steakhouse, Chop House Steaks & Seafood by chef Kenny Mills, at 2230 W. Park Row Drive in Pantego; dinner nightly except Sundays. 817-274-2600, chophousesteakandseafood.com/.

Chef Tim Love's new Queenie's Steakhouse in Denton is open for dinner Thursdays through Saturdays and also for lunch-only on Fridays; 115 E. Hickory St., 940-442-6834, queeniessteakhouse.com.

And Paco & John Mexican Diner, a venture involving Saint-Emilion's Bernard Tronche and ranked one of Texas Monthly's best 50 Mexican restaurants in Texas, has restored dinner service Tuesday through Saturday nights. It's open for breakfast and lunch daily except Sunday; 1116 Eighth Ave., 817-810-0032, pacoandjohn.com.

Pop's Burgers , beloved in Benbrook but forgotten when it moved to the Westcliff neighborhood, has closed.

Pop's won the 2011 DFW.com "Burger Battle," but that was before an ill-considered move into the high-rent district to the overbuilt former HotTub's Back Porch Grotto, on an isolated stretch of Trail Lake Drive facing Foster Park.

Pop's Russell House added a bar and specials but never quite recaptured the spirit of Pop's old Benbrook grill.

Notes on the door and on Facebook say only "this location" has closed, offering hope for a future Pop's.

Pop's is survived by Charley's Old Fashioned Hamburgers, only a block away at 4616 Granbury Road, another "Burger Battle" semifinalist.

Bud Kennedy's Eats Beat appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com Weekend. 817-390-7538

Facebook: Bud Kennedy's Eats Beat

Twitter: @eatsbeat

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