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Review: Kim's Chicken and Seafood in Haltom City

Kim’s Chicken and Seafood 4840 Broadway Ave. Fort Worth 817-834-3997 Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday through Saturday; closed Sunday

Posted 2:24pm on Tuesday, Apr. 09, 2013

Unlike a true Texan, I’m not much of a fried food fanatic. When the State Fair rolls in, I usually scoff at the latest in fried achievements. I’ll admit, though, I still get the occasional craving.

But my confession doesn’t end there. I found Kim’s Chicken and Seafood in Haltom City, a real fried food haven, and went to town on their menu.

I confess to having eaten two large fried catfish fillets ($4.99), moist, flaky, and crispy; along with a handful of fried okra ($1.39-$1.99).

And I confess to enjoying the crunch of the flour-breaded chicken tenders ($3.59-$9.99) and the even crunchier popcorn chicken bites (breaded with bread crumbs, like the popcorn shrimp, $4.49), the most popular item at Kim’s.

That’s just to start. I also ate nearly a whole basket of onion rings, and cared not that each was so heavily battered and fried that the onion was almost undetectable.

And then I tried the tender chicken and shrimp fried rice ($4.49-$5.99, also available with just vegetables), which was actually light and surprisingly not greasy compared with its battered and fried siblings (whose flavor was not as satisfying).

Might as well mention that I also ate a few hush puppies ($.89-$1.69), but found their lack of crunch unappealing. I offset this by eating more onion rings.

I dipped almost everything in what Kim’s calls “chicken sauce,” a sweet, peppery ketchup made in-house; and the buffalo sauce, an even hotter version of the dip.

Lastly, I confess to wanting to try — but not having enough room in my body to do so — the chicken wings in a variety of sauces, including barbecue, buffalo, lemon pepper and teriyaki ($3.99-$10.99).

Nothing says fried food guilt like everything I just mentioned. (And nothing says fried food like the ancient former Dairy Queen building where Kim’s Chicken and Seafood is located.)

The rest of the menu is combinations of catfish, chicken and shrimp ($5.39-$9.99).

One last confession: If I lived closer, I’d be seeing Kim at least once a month. I blame the popcorn chicken. What’s next? Eating a fried Oreo?

Let’s not get carried away. I’ll stick with the chicken.

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