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Eats beat: Salsa Limon moves into University landmark

Posted 12:27pm on Tuesday, Apr. 02, 2013

Salsa Limon's tacos and burritos are already works of art.

Any morning now, they'll be at the art museum.

Salsa Limon, ranked by USA Today as one of America's 10 best for burritos, is taking over a landmark, postwar-era diner on University Drive across from the Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth.

"This is a big honor and also a big challenge," said Ramiro "Milo" Ramirez, the former Miami marketing executive who brings his food truck success to the 1947-vintage former sandwich shop at 929 University Drive.

"My family is all artists and art lovers," he said. "We love the Modern. I want Salsa Limon to complement the Modern and make it more than just a taqueria."

He sees the new location as an Austin-style breakfast taco stand and walk-up gathering spot, but promises the decor will be more artistic than folkloric.

Last week, for example, he was negotiating with city officials over a proposed origami patio canopy.

"I saw that building the first time I came to Fort Worth and thought it had so much potential," Ramirez said. "It's a special place."

The all-aluminum, Streamline Moderne-style diner was built in 1947 for the Allen family's Topsy's Cafe, a diner featuring "Topsyburgers" popular with future stars George Carlin, Bob Schieffer and others from the old KXOL radio station nearby.

From Washington and CBS News, Schieffer wrote by email: "It was the major hangout -- great hamburgers. The cook was a crusty guy who was always in a row with the waitresses." Schieffer played on the Topsy's amateur summer baseball team.

Salsa Limon also plans new food items, Ramirez said, along with the steak tacos and honey-mustard chicken pastor from his trucks and his taqueria at the La Gran Plaza mall.

He'll add Oaxacan green chicken mole tacos and lemon-garlic red snapper tacos along with a larger breakfast menu, he said: "The breakfast taco is my favorite taco in the world."

Look for Salsa Limon to open in the next few days. The La Gran Plaza "mothership" location is open from midmorning through dinner daily, later weekends; 4200 South Freeway, 817-921-4807, salsalimon.com.

The new Little Lilly Sushi already was one of Fort Worth's hottest new restaurants.

Now, Eater.com has named Jesus Garcia's Camp Bowie Boulevard restaurant as one of the most talked-about sushi bars in the nation.

Little Lilly made the same list with chef Nobu Matsushisa's new Nobu Las Vegas and the new Houston location of Atlanta's MF Sushi.

Little Lilly is open for lunch and dinner daily at 6100 Camp Bowie Blvd.; 817-989-8886, littlelillysushi.com.

Bud Kennedy's Eats Beat appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com Weekend. 817-390-7538

Facebook: Bud Kennedy's Eats Beat

Twitter: @eatsbeat

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