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Eats beat: Jesus, not Ben, takes over Tex-Mex favorite

Posted 12:52pm on Thursday, Mar. 07, 2013

Twenty years after The Great Mi Charrito Ray New Owner Scare, the rumor finally came true.

Familiar restaurant manager Jesus Romero has bought Manuel Govea's legacy Tex-Mex restaurant, and promises he'll preserve it.

It was Govea who puzzled diners once by posting a new sign.

It read, "Bienvenidos" ("welcome").

More than one Spanish-challenged customer in suburban Wedgwood called to ask if Govea left.

He was puzzled.

Finally, one caller asked, "Well, who is Ben Venidos?"

After a career managing Benito's and other restaurants, Romero is Mi Charrito's "Ben Venidos."

"I want to keep everything the same," he said, meaning classic, old-school Tex-Mex tacos and enchiladas.

But not all the same.

"People like different dishes now," he said, mentioning the new green tomatillo spinach enchiladas, green chicken enchiladas and forthcoming grilled tilapia platters.

"Our customers have come here since they were children, and we want their children to keep coming," Romero said.

One day this week, the chicken enchiladas were full of lightly spiced chicken breast. A simple beef taco was full of flavor.

Lunches start at $5.95. Romero will continue the tradition of offering a free sopaipilla and honey with every dinner, a throwback to the days when Mi Charrito competed against a nearby Pancho's.

Mi Charrito is open for lunch and dinner six days, with Sunday service beginning in April.

It's at 5693 Westcreek Drive, 817-294-0020.

Fort Worth also has a new, 21st-century enchilada cafe.

Enchiladas Ole is open in the Oakhurst neighborhood, following a fresh-take-out trend that began with west-side Mariposa's Latin Kitchen.

Enchiladas Ole is the first restaurant by "Enchilada Lady" Mary Perez.

After two years selling salsa in Central Market and other stores, Perez expanded to offer cheese or brisket enchiladas in ancho chile sauce, green chicken enchiladas or enchiladas in rich mole.

Desserts include vanilla flan or coconut flan from Bistro Desserts in North Richland Hills.

Enchiladas Ole is open for midmorning breakfast, lunch and dinner Tuesdays through Saturdays, lunch Sundays and Mondays; 901 N. Sylvania Ave., 817-984-1360; www.enchiladasole.com.

Bud Kennedy's Eats Beat appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com Weekend. 817-390-7538

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