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BBQ Safari: Wilson's in Fort Worth hits the spot

Wilson's BBQ

6513 Brentwood Stair Road

Fort Worth

817-496-4114


Posted 4:15pm on Wednesday, Mar. 06, 2013

To find Wilson's BBQ, you almost have to be going someplace else. It's on Brentwood Stair Road in Meadowbrook, near Loop 820, next to a gas station, and in a building that used to house a chicken and waffle joint. My kind of place.

In fact, this is exactly the kind of place that you normally find the very best in slow-smoked bovine and pigsicles. Good 'cue doesn't need a fancy building or a trendy location. BBQ fiends like me will find it.

Once inside, you find yourself in a small room with a few yellow Formica booths and a counter with a well-worn menu board and a nice lady who will give you meat if you pay her. Nothing else is needed or wanted.

I ordered the three meat plate ($14.99), with ribs, sausage and brisket. There was no choice of sides; you get beans and potato salad (as it should be), and those were standard fare. Unfortunately, the meat was covered in sauce by default, so next time I'll know to ask for sauce on the side. It arrived in a plastic-foam box (perfect) and I quickly decided that the booths were too small for someone who eats as much BBQ as me. I went out to the car and dug in.

The sausage was solid, with a touch of spicy heat that cut through the sauce nicely.

Brisket had a nice, dark smoke ring, a pink layer just beneath the surface of the meat caused by the interaction of the smoke with the meat. That shows us it spent time in real smoke. Texture was as good as it gets, and so was the flavor, but it got overpowered somewhat by the sauce, a thick, slightly sweet concoction.

The ribs ... well, when I tried to pick up a rib, the bone fell out. Good pigsicles should hold together, and you should be able to take a bite without it falling apart. The only 'cue that should "fall off the bone" is pulled pork. The meat had broken down too much, and the sauce completely overpowered it.

So how does Wilson's rate on our quest for the holy grail of BBQ? For authenticity, it hit it out of the park; a simple concrete block building, no decor to speak of, and a no-frills presentation. This is how an authentic Texas BBQ joint should be.

The brisket was first rate (but remember to ask for sauce on the side). The sausage was decent, and the only real failing was the ribs. Wilson's may not be the holy grail we're seeking, but it's definitely a strong contender. If you have any suggestions on where we might find the grail, leave us a comment on DFW.com.

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