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Review: Two Sisters Restaurant in Hurst

Two Sisters Restaurant 257 Bedford Euless Road Hurst 817-282-1800 For Two Sisters on Facebook, click here.

Hours: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday, Tuesday; 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Wednesday; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Thursday through Saturday; noon-6 p.m. Sunday

Posted 5:36pm on Tuesday, Oct. 30, 2012

I’ve learned that restaurateurs don’t like certain words or expressions, like “ritzy,” “trendy” and on the other side of the spectrum, “hole in the wall.”

But for people like me and plenty of other food connoisseurs, “hole in the wall” is often a term of endearment, and can be synonymous with good eating. If a place has such a designation, it’s typically a hidden gem. Kind of like Two Sisters Restaurant in Hurst.

On the menu is N’awlins style food. Inside, New Orleans Saints memorabilia covers every wall with one wall showing off a giant “Who Dat Nation” in black letters.

And yeah, there’s even a “Who Dat punch” ($1.49), a sugary, fruit concoction special to the house. As far as what’s in the drink, we have no idea, and the owners wouldn’t tell us, but we enjoyed a few glasses.

There are the usual Cajun staples, like red beans and rice ($3.99-$5.99) and gumbo ($5.99-$8.99). The red beans and rice, although cooked well, could use some spice. The gumbo, on the other hand, is made with filé powder, a spicy herb that gives the dish a pronounced, earthy flavor. Plus, it goes well with the gumbo’s sausage and shrimp.

The jumbo seafood platter ($15.99) includes catfish, crab cakes, oysters, tilapia, shrimp and fries. Sadly, there’s nothing “jumbo” about the dish since each piece weighs in on the smaller side. Despite that, we especially loved the oniony-tasting crab cakes and the fish, which had a very mild flavor. Each piece goes well with the restaurant’s “Super Sunday sauce,” a tangy dip similar to Thousand Island or Russian dressing.

The bourbon chicken pasta ($8.99) with fettuccine noodles in what seems to be a tomato-based Alfredo sauce is flavorful and a little spicy.

The most popular dish is the fried shrimp po-boy ($7.99 for the 8-inch), fully loaded with lettuce, mayo, pickles, tomatoes and tender shrimp, like the ones on the platter.

But our favorite is the crawfish etouffe ($10.99), which includes a breaded catfish smothered in a complex, sweet and spicy roux that we, embarrassingly, mouth-vacuumed in a matter of seconds.

The same goes for the simple yet satisfying Cajun chicken bites (5 pieces, $3.99), juicy chicken chunks out to restore the reputation of chicken nuggets everywhere.

For the price, portions are slightly smaller than those at competing Cajun restaurants. But for some dishes, like the etouffe and gumbo, it’s worth the extra change.

Of course, value isn’t always about portion size. It’s also about flavor, and Two Sisters captures the essence of New Orleans-style dining very well.

And yes, the crew running the place is also from the Big Easy. That’s actually where the phrase “Two Sisters” comes from. In fact, the owners are men; but in New Orleans, the words “two sisters” are frequently used to brand those hidden gems.

I suppose that’s more polite than “hole in the wall,” but whatever you call it, the food is good either way.

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