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Review: Everything German in Bedford

Everything German 2816 Brown Trail, Bedford 682-503-7991 www.everythinggerman.org Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday


Posted 6:36pm on Tuesday, Sep. 25, 2012

We’re in the aftermath of Oktoberfest, and you’re probably still hungover. You waited almost forever to get your beers, and you made them count.

You could recuperate with some burgers or enchiladas, but that disaster recovery plan has been done a million times over. How about something German?

Everything German in Bedford is a family-run restaurant specializing in, well, everything German, with big plates and big portions to match. It occupies an old Taco Bell, and when I say family-run, I’m serious: Papa Bollgen cooks in the back while his six offspring run the place out front.

I’m not German, but I know this place is authentic, so much so that we could barely pronounce any of the dishes. (Funny as heck to try, though.)

Take the hahnchenschnitzel, ($12.95) for example, spelled like someone ran their hands across a keyboard.

More consonants must mean more delicious, because the hahnchenschnitzel is a hefty and juicy chicken cutlet served with soft, well-seasoned pan-fried potatoes. Its golden brown breading is the very definition of perfectly crispy.

The fleisch sampler ($9.95), easier to spell, was made for sausage fans. It includes kaiserwurst, beerwurst and weisswurst. Of the three, the beerwurst was the juiciest with a balanced flavor, while the weisswurst was the mildest.

And for those who worship cheese, go for the obatzter ($5.95) appetizer. Its camembert and cream cheese mixture is as pungent and intense as it is creamy.

The sauerbraten ($15.95) — a beef roast soaked in red wine and vinegar — is also pretty intense. (A little bit of sauce with each bite goes a long way here.)

The roulade ($15.95), beef rolls stuffed with bacon, ground pork, onions and pickles, is a lot more flavor-friendly. We like the strong taste of the onions and it’s actually very similar to my family’s meat loaf recipe (we use a lot of bacon strips).

The restaurant’s most popular dish is the jagerschnitzel (pork, $14.95) for several reasons, including a bacon and onion brown gravy. It’s a pork cutlet (also available in veal), breaded like the hahnchenschnitzel, and smothered in that luscious gravy with mushrooms.

Entrees are served with soup or salad, but go for the soup every time. The creamy and hearty potato soup and the tangy and sweet, tomato-flavored solyanka (a Ukrainian dish) both tied for our favorite.

A lot of dishes are also available as lunch specials (11 a.m.-3 p.m.) with a decent price cut. And new recipes are added frequently. New recipes that, in all likelihood, I won’t be able to pronounce.

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