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Eats beat: Flavors of Central Texas find new home in Watauga

Posted 5:35pm on Tuesday, Sep. 04, 2012

Rufe Snow Drive is a notorious restaurant graveyard.

But one of the street's endless ugly strip shopping centers has become the new home of a barbecue hangout.

Twisted Hickory Smokehouse, new at 6801 Rufe Snow Drive in Watauga, is one of the few North Texas pits offering a choice of three flavors of Central Texas sausage: venison, jalapeño or garlic-beef, all from Brenham and all worth a try on a $6.99 lunch special or a $12.99 four-meat sampler plate.

The pork ribs are as big as the plate, and the brisket was lean with an above-average crust.

Twisted Hickory's sides offer more than beans and taters. The lunch platters can come with carrots, green beans or corn, and the appetizers include brisket-stuffed jalapeños.

It's open for lunch and dinner Mondays though Saturdays, Sundays for lunch; 817-428-2327, facebook.com/TwistedHickorySmokehouse.

Chef Lanny Lancarte II of Lanny's Alta Cocina Mexicana was bicycling on the Trinity Trails when he thought of hosting an outdoor dinner on the old Edwards Ranch.

Chefs Jon Bonnell of Bonnell's and Molly McCook of Ellerbe Fine Foods will join in the event Oct. 7, with all three doing hors d'oeuvres and desserts while taking turns on three dinner courses: McCook's duck confit salad, Lancarte's Texas farm-raised striped sea bass with braised Burgundy Pasture Beef (Grandview) oxtail and Bonnell's Broken Arrow Ranch (Ingram) venison medallions with green-chile-cheese grits.

"I always saw that part of the ranch and thought it'd be a great place to host a dinner," Lancarte said.

The site is called the Heart of the Ranch at Clear Fork. Bonnell called it "a beautiful spot that feels like the heart of the city, but it's right in the middle of Fort Worth."

The dinner is limited to the first 125 buyers. Tickets cost $150, or $175 with a champagne reception.

For tickets, check f2tfortworth.com.

More change is coming to the oversaturated restaurant row in Roanoke.

Tacos & Avocados will open Sept. 17, replacing Cowboy Chow with a casual taqueria adding eight flavors of frozen margaritas and a serve-yourself paleta (ice cream bar) cart.Chef Jason Boso promises contemporary tacos and "smashed avocado" dishes.

Gerhard's German Restaurant's last day in Roanoke was Sunday. According to its website, a grand opening at its new location, 222 W. Hickory St. in Denton, will be Saturday; 817-491-0300, gvrestaurants.com.

Bud Kennedy's Eats Beat appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com Weekend. 817-390-7538

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