Dining review: Silver Spoon Cafe & Bakery in Southlake

Silver Spoon

Cafe & Bakery

621 E. Southlake Blvd.




Hours: 8 a.m.-6 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 9 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday (family-style fried chicken dinner, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday)

Posted 12:00am on Sunday, Jul. 22, 2012

Greeted by a patio filled with pink umbrellas, blush-colored awnings, and an interior filled with raspberry banquettes, it's easy to adopt an equally rosy outlook when dining at Silver Spoon Cafe & Bakery in Southlake.

Opened seven weeks ago by longtime cafe couple Bill and Barbara Harris, formerly of Dallas' Celebrity Café, Silver Spoon has something for the entire family: tasty sandwiches and smartly assembled salads for the adults and an Alice in Wonderland tea party's worth of sweets for the kids.

Silver Spoon is all about familiarity and made-from-scratch quality in its selections, which explains the reassuring presence of egg salad, roast beef and tuna salad among its sandwiches, and classics such as the Cobb and Caesar among its salads.

But Silver Spoon's deft touch with these old faithfuls should never be underestimated. The cranberry chicken salad sandwich ($8.95) squeezes a garden's worth of ingredients into the sublimely creamy consistency of a chicken salad spread. Set on marble rye bread, the chicken salad blends a fine dice of chicken with mayonnaise and is riddled with walnuts, apples and tart pellets of cranberry.

The "grilled" Monte Cristo's ($8.95) baked ham and Havarti cheese interior is rendered all ooey-gooey thanks to its encounter with a panini press, branding the four sandwich triangles with symmetrical grill marks. The Monte Cristo's light dusting of powdered sugar adds a sweet note to its savory melody.

Meanwhile, the Silver Spoon salad ($10.95) brings delicious order to a riot of candied pecans, fresh greens, razor-thin slices of turkey breast and dried cranberries -- all united by a citrus vinaigrette that's never too sour.

You would require a dozen return visits to make a dent in Silver Spoon's encyclopedic dessert selection, from white chocolate toffee, red velvet and caramel turtle fudge cakes to a profusion of hand-decorated sugar cookies. For my light finisher, I improvised with one of Silver Spoon's star breakfast sticky buns ($1.95). It is a cinnamon-nutmeg, pecan-studded hit -- and has the weight perfectly suitable for a bicep curl.

If available, grab a bowl of the daily cobbler ($4.25). The peaches in mine felt fresh-picked, and they are matched by the brittle crunch of the streusel topping.

Bill and Barbara Harris, 80 and 77, respectively, are into their fourth decade of running restaurants. Silver Spoon shows they're still in the pink when it comes to filling a menu with unpretentious, well-made food.

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