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Eats beat: New grill still turns out Crowley's favorite burger

Posted 2:26pm on Tuesday, May. 15, 2012

The news stirred panic in two counties last week: Nicky D's was remodeling.

No worries: Crowley's cult-favorite burger grill upgraded, but not enough to shock regulars who come for the big bacon-cheeseburgers.

The cluttered dining room remains the same. Christmas lights strung overhead only add a crazy touch to what began as a convenience store and burger grill on Farm Road 1187 west of town.

Behind the counter, Nicky D's added a new kitchen and a 6-foot-long grill, the better to turn out burgers with extra-large onion rings or the "Texas Double" with chili and grilled onions.

Owners Nick and Tammy Danelski opened in 2003 after Nick moved from Chicago. Since then, Nicky D's has added picnic tables and a not-so-scenic "porch."

But despite recent improvements -- for example, there's now an order window instead of a counter -- it's still an overgrown back-road country grill.

(One amenity didn't change: The bathrooms are portable toilets out back -- but nice ones.)

Nicky D's is open for lunch and dinner weekdays and Saturdays at 1605 Farm Road 1187, on the corner at Longhorn Trail west of Crowley; 817-297-0333, nickydscrowley.com.

Crowley is known for good burgers and barbecue -- except on Sundays, when Nicky D's and busy Cousin's Bar-B-Q are closed.

Now, Ambush Grill-N-Bar and neighbor M&Z's Smokehouse BBQ serve Sunday diners.

Ambush is the new, family-friendly version of the Ferocious Ambush Roadhouse from Rendon.

The new Ambush green-chile cheeseburger is every bit as good as the original. The chile also comes atop a grilled chicken sandwich, and other menu items include burgers with homemade chili con carne or Wichita Falls-style "beanie burgers" with refried beans and Fritos.

Ambush is open daily for lunch and dinner at 824 S. Crowley Road, 817-551-9360; www.facebook.com/AmbushGrillAndBar.

M&Z's offers a three-meat Herman Platter for $15 that is plenty big.

The pintos-and-cornbread bowl is a deal at $4; 804 S. Crowley Road, 817-297-1766, mandzssmokehouse.com.

A new location of The Capital Grille will open Thursday in downtown Fort Worth.

What will it have that other prime steakhouses don't have?

Lunch.

This location will serve steaks, burgers and sandwiches weekdays for about $16, or combos with soup, a sandwich and a side dish for $18.

Capital Grille is owned by Florida-based Darden Restaurants, parent of Eddie V's Prime Seafood, Olive Garden and Red Lobster; 800 Main St.; 817-348-9200, www.thecapitalgrille.com.

Copper Creek Restaurant of Abilene, that city's version of rustic "cowboy cuisine," will open in Weatherford.

Owner Ryan Stockard will remodel a former Chinese buffet at 216 Interstate 20 W., near Home Depot; www.coppercreekrestaurant.com.

Bud Kennedy's Eats Beat appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com Weekend. 817-390-7538

Twitter: @eatsbeat

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