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Diners, Drive-ins and Dives leaves no bun unturned in DFW

Posted 11:10am on Monday, May. 11, 2015

The cameras of Diners, Drive-ins and Dives left no bun unturned in DFW this week.

They found the obscure favorites, such as Hungarian goulash and Polish pirogues at Taste of Europe in Arlington.

And they found the obvious: Chop House Burgers in Arlington and Tim Love's restaurants in Fort Worth.

But if I ever get to tell bigmouth Guy Fieri where to go, I'll send him to Gogo Gumbo.

Chef Kraig Thome's tiny gumbo shack in Boyd has made Wise County a dining destination.

The 50-seat restaurant opens at 4 p.m. five nights a week. It's often full by 4:05.

The idea of opening a New Orleans-style restaurant on a small-town Texas back road seemed unlikely three years ago. But Thome, a former club chef in Houston, decided to start small.

Now, crowds line up for specials such as sea bass cioppino, scallop-and-shrimp risotto, crawfish bisque or Buffalo chicken meatballs.

Thome's crowds include lawyers from Fort Worth and executives from Dallas.

But so far, no Food Network or Fieri.

Thome said he was stunned this week to see photos of Fieri in Arlington with Chop House Burgers chef Kenny Mills.

"This is a normal guy I say hi to every week at the restaurant supply," Thome said.

"I thought -- wow, this guy is on Diners, Drive-ins and Dives? How fantastic. I'd love to be on."

Thome's specials this weekend include potato-crusted halibut. The dessert menu changes seasonally, and next week marks the return of the popular blueberry-cornmeal upside-down cake.

Gogo Gumbo is open Tuesdays through Saturdays for dinner only. To avoid a wait, go by 5 p.m. weekdays or 4 p.m. weekends.

It's open through next week, then will close for a vacation until after Christmas. It'll reopen Dec. 27 and be open New Year's Eve.

Gogo Gumbo is at 116 W. Rock Island Ave., Boyd, 940-433-FISH (940-433-3474), www.gogogumbo.com.

I'd also send Fieri to La Choza Mexican Grill near Azle.

That's a tiny hole-in-the-wall cafe with the best Santa Fe-style cooking in North Texas.

Owner Anthony Aguillon, a former Santa Fe chef, buys both green and red chiles to deliver dishes reminiscent of that city's Tomasita's. He also serves chiles rellenos, fajitas and a few pasta and shrimp dishes.

Yes, he used to have Anthony's Place in north Fort Worth; 11210 S. Farm Road 730 at Flat Rock Road, 817-444-9293.

Bud Kennedy's Eats Beat appears Wednesdays in Life & Arts and Fridays in DFW.com Weekend. 817-390-7538

Facebook: "Bud Kennedy's Eats Beat"

Twitter: @eatsbeat

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