a:link, a:visited{color: #15c; text-decoration:none;} ul,ol{list-style:none;} pre,code{font-size:12px;} html,body,form,input,h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6,ul,ol,li,dl,dd,dt,table,thead,tbody,tfoot, th,tr,td,pre,p,blockquote,fieldset{margin:0;padding:0;} a img,:link img,:visited img{border:none;} address{font-style:normal;} table{border-collapse:collapse;} body { font-size: 14px; margin: 0 auto; width: 645px;} h1, h2, h3 { margin:0; padding: 0; } h1{font-size:16px;} h2{font-size:14px;} h3{font-size:14px;} p {font-size: 12px; line-height: 1.4;} h4 { color: #666666; font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; margin: 0 0 10px; width: 100%; } #mast_subscribe { float: left; padding: 25px 0 0 10px; font-size: 10px; text-align: center;} #mast_subscribe a { color: black; } #masthead_title { color: #fff; position: absolute; top: 15px; right: 15px; font-size: 18px; font-weight: normal; } #content-wrap {margin-top: 15px; float:left;} #footer{ width: auto; clear: both; height: 1px; margin: 0; padding: 0; } /* START: Navigation */ /* END: Navigation */ /* START: Highlight Layout */ /* END: Highlight Layout */ /* START: widgets */ #weekend-planner {margin-top: -5px;} #zvents-widgets {background-color: #222; padding: 0 15px 15px; width: 290px;} .zvents-widget {background-color: #fff; padding: 0 15px 15px;} #movie-finder {margin-bottom: 5px;} .zvents-widget-header { border-bottom: 2px solid #222222; margin-left: -10px; margin-bottom: 10px; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-left: 4px;} .zvents-image {float:left; margin-right: 10px;} .inline-list li {display:inline-block; margin: 0 5px 3px 0;} .zvents-listing {float:left; margin-bottom: 8px; width: 100%; } .ZventsDays {float:left; margin: 10px 0;} .ZventsDay {border: 1px solid #ccc; margin-right: 10px; padding: 4px; } /* START: Highlights */ #top-content {float:left; margin-bottom: 15px; } #top-story h2 {font-size: 21px; line-height: 1.1; margin-bottom: 10px;} #top-story p {font-size: 14px;} .top-image {float:left; margin-right: 15px;} .photo_credit {font-size: 12px; text-align: right;} .story_body {font-size: 16px; line-height: 1.4;} .secondary-story {margin-bottom: 15px;} .newsletter_featured_story { text-align: center; background: black; padding: 5px; margin-bottom: 5px;} .newsletter_featured_story h1 { margin: 2px 0 2px 0; } .newsletter_featured_story img { background: grey; padding: 3px; margin-bottom: 5px;} .newsletter_featured_story p { color: white; font-size: 12px;} .newsletter_featured_story a { color: white; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: underline;} .top_stories li { list-style: none; clear: left; padding: 5px 8px 10px 8px;} .top_stories_headlines li { list-style: square inside; clear: left; padding: 1px 0 1px 10px; } .top_stories_headlines li a { color: black; font-size: 12px; } .top_stories_headlines li a:hover { text-decoration: underline; } .title { font-size: 16px; font-weight: bold; clear: both;} .title a { text-decoration: underline; color: black; } .story { /* margin: 0 20px 0 20px;*/ clear: both;} .headline { font-size: 14px; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;} .headline a { color: black; font-size: 14px; text-decoration: none; font-weight: bold;} .headline a:hover { text-decoration: underline; } .left_half .top_stories .headline { clear: left; } /* END: Highlights */ /* COUPONS.CSS for findnsave widget - TEMPORARY */ div.fns_td_wrap * { border: 0 none; margin: 0; outline: medium none; padding: 0; } .clearfix { } .fns_td_wrap a { color: #000000; text-decoration: none; } .fns_td_wrap a:hover { color: #0E4B82; text-decoration: none; } .fns_td_wrap { background: url("images/fns_widget_sprite.gif") no-repeat scroll right bottom #C4E29F; border: 1px solid #8DB959; font-family: Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; padding: 5px; text-align: left; width: 285px; } .fns_td_wrap h2 { color: #000000; font-size: 16pt; margin-bottom: 3px; padding: 0 5px; vertical-align: middle; } .fns_td_wrap h3 { font-size: 12pt; margin: 3px 0; text-align: left; } .fns_td_wrap h3 a { color: #0E4B82; } .fns_td_wrap h3 a:hover { color: #000000; } .fns_td_wrap h2 img { float: right; } div.fns_td_wrap .fns_td_container { -moz-border-radius: 5px 5px 5px 5px; -moz-box-shadow: 0 0 5px #6E7566; background-color: #FFFFFF; margin-bottom: 5px; padding: 5px 8px; } a.fns_button { background: url("images/fns_widget_sprite.gif") no-repeat scroll -20px -84px transparent; color: #FFFFFF; display: inline-block; font-size: 13pt; font-weight: bold; margin: 5px 0; padding: 8px 2px 9px; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; width: 129px; } a.fns_button:hover { background-position: -20px -129px; color: #FFFFFF; } .fns_footer { display: block; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold; margin-top: 5px; text-align: left; } .fns_footer a { color: #3B6992; text-decoration: none; } .fns_footer a:hover { color: #2F5A84; } .fns_footer .powered_by { float: right; } #groupon_bigbox_display .fns_feature img { float: left; margin-top: 7px; width: 145px; } #groupon_bigbox_display .pricetag { background-image: url("images/fns_widget_sprite.gif"); background-position: -20px -276px; float: left; margin-left: 8px; padding-top: 22px; text-align: center; width: 115px; } #groupon_bigbox_display .deal_price { -moz-border-radius: 3px 3px 3px 3px; background-color: #6D9B35; color: #FFFFFF; font-size: 18pt; font-weight: bold; margin: 0 auto; padding: 2px; width: 80%; } #groupon_bigbox_display .deal_value { font-size: 12pt; font-weight: bold; line-height: 11pt; margin: 5px 0 8px; } #groupon_bigbox_display h6, #combo_display h6 { margin: 3px 0 0; padding: 0; text-align: center; } #groupon_bigbox_display h5 { text-align: right; } #groupon_bigbox_display h5 .powered_by { margin: 5px; } #groupon_ruler_display .pricetag { -moz-border-radius-topleft: 5px; -moz-border-radius-topright: 5px; -moz-box-shadow: 0 -1px 4px #6E7566; background-color: #6D9B35; color: #FFFFFF; float: right; font-size: 18pt; padding: 0 5px; } #groupon_ruler_display .deal_value, #groupon_ruler_display td.deal_value { color: #FFFFFF; font-size: 9pt; font-weight: bold; line-height: 11pt; padding-left: 10px; } #groupon_ruler_display td.bestPrice { color: #FFFFFF; font-size: 18pt; } #groupon_ruler_display .sidebarimage, #combo_display .sidebarimage { margin-right: 5px; width: 120px; } #groupon_ruler_display .groupon_image { float: left; } #groupon_ruler_display h3.groupon_deal_title { font-size: 10pt; line-height: 1.2em; } #groupon_ruler_display h3 a { color: #000000; } #groupon_ruler_display h3 a:hover { color: #2F5A84; } #groupon_ruler_display a.fns_button, #combo_display a.fns_button { background-position: -20px -5px; font-size: 11pt; margin: 3px; padding: 5px 2px; width: 100px; } #groupon_ruler_display a.fns_button:hover, #combo_display a.fns_button:hover { background-position: -20px -35px; } #combo_display .fns_td_container { padding: 6px; } #combo_display #groupon_featured { border-color: #CCCCCC; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 2px 2px 1px; padding: 5px 5px 0; } #groupon_featured h3 a { color: #0E4B82; } #groupon_featured h3 a:hover { color: #000000; } #combo_display .pricetag { background: url("images/fns_widget_sprite.gif") repeat scroll -20px -200px transparent; float: right; padding: 6px 0 8px 14px; text-align: left; width: 118px; } #combo_display .pricetag .bestPrice { float: left; font-size: 17pt; font-weight: bold; margin-right: 5px; } #combo_display .pricetag .deal_value { float: left; font-weight: bold; line-height: 10pt; } #fns_analog { margin-top: 15px; } #fns_analog h4 { background: url("images/fns_widget_sprite.gif") no-repeat scroll -23px -425px transparent; font-size: 16pt; padding-bottom: 5px; } #fns_analog ul li { list-style: none outside none; margin-top: 15px; } #fns_analog h5 { font-size: 11pt; } #fns_analog .standard_image { margin-right: 10px; width: 75px; } #fns_analog a.view_deal { background: url("images/fns_widget_sprite.gif") no-repeat scroll -28px -500px transparent; display: block; font-size: 11pt; } #fns_analog a.view_deal:hover { background-position: -28px -535px; }
Weekend newsletter

Weekend newsletter

Review: Grady's Line Camp Steakhouse

Grady's Line Camp Steakhouse

4610 Shaw Road

Tolar

254-835-4459

www.linecampsteakhouse.com

Hours: 5-10 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday

Signature dish: Rib-eye steak

Entree cost: $16-$38

Essentials: Reservations recommended; full bar featuring regional and local wines; major credit cards; smoking allowed on patio; wheelchair-accessible.

Good to know: Keep driving; you're not lost.

Recommended for: Grady Spears groupies; lovers of comfort food; day-trippers.


Posted 6:42pm on Thursday, Dec. 08, 2011

For 20 years, North Texas has been Grady Spears' kitchen, as the Fort Worth celebrity chef has honed and perfected his "cowboy cuisine" at several area restaurants, including Reata and The Nutt House in Granbury. He didn't invent chicken-fried steak, but his sophisticated approach to it certainly made it exciting to eat again.

But anyone who has followed Spears' career knows that whenever he opens a new restaurant, it's best to get there quickly; he may soon be gone. This year alone, Spears disappeared from two restaurants: Clear Fork Station in Willow Park and the shuttered Grady's Restaurant on Forest Park Boulevard. Both relationships ended in litigation, preventing him from commenting about the departures, he says.

Spears recently resurfaced near the tiny town of Tolar, two miles south of Granbury, down a twisting, bumpy road, at Line Camp Steakhouse, an award-winning, 5-year-old restaurant that had already made a name for itself before Spears took over the lease last month; it's now named Grady's Line Camp Steakhouse. No more moving around, he says. Spears is now serving the type of food he wants to do in an atmosphere in which he wants to do it. Ask him yourself, since he's there most nights the restaurant is open.

Spears has slimmed down Line Camp's old menu considerably, offering a weekly, rotating menu with seven or eight entrees, five appetizers and two or three desserts; everything is made in-house.

During our visit, appetizers included calf fries ($15), barbecue bacon-wrapped jalapeños ($9) and a layered dip ($8) consisting of tender, shredded beef, creamy guacamole and mild queso, all stacked in a glass and surrounded by crisp, house-made flour tortilla chips.

Entrees were like an album of Grady's greatest hits: buttermilk- and beer-battered chicken-fried steak ($18), beef short ribs braised in Dr Pepper and served with macaroni and cheese ($23), and an 18-ounce T-bone topped with red chile-cheese enchiladas ($38).

Flame-grilled over pecan, steaks are still one of Spears' signature items, and our 16-ounce rib-eye ($38) was spot-on. It was perfectly cooked medium-rare -- warm, tender and pinkish-red inside, blackened crisp outside. It was well-seasoned, too, with salt, pepper and dark piloncillo, a Mexican brown sugar that offered a subtle sweetness. On the side came a plump sweet potato.

The dish's one shortcoming was the chile relleno served on top of the steak. A roasted green chile pepper was seeded and filled with a mix of melted goat and jack cheese. While it may have been intended for the cheese to melt onto the steak, it cooled and hardened inside the pepper; plus, the tartness of the goat cheese just didn't work well with the pepper.

Chicken and dumplings ($17) were cleverly presented in a small crock, still steaming and bubbling. This was chicken, two ways: A whole chicken wing had been dunked into the pot, while pieces of roasted chicken chunks floated beneath in a sea of celery, onions and carrots; the "dumpling" was a house-made biscuit.

The two kinds of chicken were a nice surprise that gave this familiar dish an added layer of taste and depth. And the crock was a whimsical touch that was also practical: It kept the food warm.

A basket of soft house-made jalapeño muffins accompanied the entrees, along with two excellent salads: a peppery Caesar topped with crisp tortilla strips instead of croutons, and a spinach salad, livened up with a dry mustard-infused dressing.

More proof that Spears' abilities aren't strictly limited to carnivorism: A side of oven-roasted Brussels sprouts ($6), served family-style, may have been the meal's highlight; there was crunch and smoke in every bite.

Desserts consisted of blueberry and peach fried pies ($6), but the restaurant had sold out, Spears said.

The chance to interact with Spears is one of several things that make dining at Line Camp a unique experience.

It's rare to see a chef sit with guests at each and every table, greeting them on their way in, shaking their hands on their way out. Servers were equally pampering.

Atmosphere plays a role in Line Camp's charm, too. Built on a 52-acre plot of land, the restaurant is one large room, big as a barn, with cedar walls covered in Western artwork.

Out back is a spacious open field, with not a city light in sight. Line Camp may be tough to get to, but it's even tougher to leave.

We welcome your comments on this story, but please be civil. Do not use profanity, hate speech, threats, personal abuse, images, internet links or any device to draw undue attention. Our policy requires those wishing to post here to use their real identity.

Our commenting policy | Facebook commenting FAQ | Why Facebook?


Hey there. or join DFW.com. Your account. Log out.

Remember me




We now have a new, simpler way for you to enter and search for events, at listings.dfw.com. As always, when you submit an event to appear online, it will also be available for us in our print publication. But now you can simply enter your event and provide an email address, rather than creating a separate account and registering. Our new listings tool is still a work in progress, so we appreciate your patience as we fine-tune it. Please contact us at hsvokos@dfw.com if you have any questions or concerns.