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Oliver's Fine Foods: A first look

Posted 9:18am on Sunday, Nov. 06, 2011

Opening day at Oliver’s Fine Foods in downtown Sundance Square was a surprisingly subdued affair. Perhaps the owners deliberately chose to open on a weekend, when downtown is cleared of workers; always better to work out the kinks before the lines stretches around the block. But still we thought there would be a few more folks eager to try the vittles at this long-awaited gourmet eatery located on Throckmorton and 4th Streets, just across from Taverna.

No worries: Word is probably going to spread very fast. We arrived just before breakfast service stopped on Saturday morning at 11 a.m., and ordered the migas and something called the Oliver’s sandwich. (You order at the counter and food is brought to you.) The migas wasn’t scrambled the way this dish usually arrives; it was more of an omelet, with cheese and pickled jalapenos baked over the eggs, and topped with pico and guacamole. The eggs were perfectly cooked, light and fluffy, and the spiciness was just right for breakfast – a mild kick that doesn’t overwhelm your palette. The hashed browns that accompanied were just the way we like them, shredded, oily and extra crunchy.

Just as flavorful was the Oliver’s sandwich, which features egg whites, spinach and cheese on a croissant. The croissant is a little on the flimsy side and doesn’t quite hold together – I may order this on a bagel next time. But this was a nice, (slightly) healthy alternative to the heavier egg dishes on the menu.

The design of the store looks terrific – brightly-lit and modern, with warm wood tables. We briefly wandered the rest of the store, which has bottles of wine stacked everywhere you turn, a selection of cheeses and produce, prepared foods, and a case of fresh fish and meat. It reminded us a bit of Eatzi's in Dallas, though not quite as large. Prices are about comparable to Central Market or Whole Foods, though the selection isn’t as deep. For downtown workers, though, this looks to be an invaluable addition to the eating scene. We’ll be back this week to sample the lunch menu.

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