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Review: Yourway Burgers & Wings in Fort Worth

Yourway Burgers & Wings

4601 West Freeway, No. 206, Fort Worth

817-737-8111

www.yourwayburgers.com

$5.49-$7.99 for burgers

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. daily


Posted 4:44pm on Thursday, Sep. 15, 2011

Timing is not necessarily Yourway Burgers & Wings' strong suit. The small spot in the Chapel Hill shopping center near Central Market opened in August, the same week that another burger place held its grand opening: the tear-inducing/traffic-causing fast-food joint In-N-Out Burger.

As In-N-Out's buzz and nutty lines are beginning to grow slender, word of Yourway is slowly trickling out. The hook: As its name implies, you can build a burger your way, choosing from a long list of toppings, stuffings and buns. Burger enthusiasts, however, are talking up the place because it's one of the few restaurants in Fort Worth that serves char-broiled burgers, and solid ones at that.

Yourway is relatively new to the burger scene; there's a location in Farmers Branch, and one will open soon in Keller. It's fast-casual -- you order at the counter, check-marking toppings and sides on dry erase boards, or choosing a specialty (Yourway also serves quesadillas, hot dogs, wings and nachos), and the food is delivered to your table. It's an atmosphere that mimics those of other fast-casual spots: a wall lined with booths, tables and chairs in the middle, a patio area and bar seating. Two TVs are on but turned down; a mix of classic rock and contemporary pop music is piped in, loudly.

In Yourway's case, fast-casual does not translate to a quick bite. You'll wait at least at 10-15 minutes for your burger, as the Angus beef patties are prepared on the spot. Vegetarians are in for a wait, too, because the Italian portobello mushroom burger is also broiled.

Toppings are numerous, ranging from the usual tomato, pickle and onion to the more exotic, including cranberries, chili, a fried egg and, on the specialty burgers, shrimp, guacamole and barbecue brisket. Six additional ingredients, such as crushed pepper and chopped jalapeños, can be infused into the meat. There are five types of buns -- onion, jalapeño, white, sweet white and wheat -- along with a bun-less burger served like a lettuce wrap, and six cheese choices.

With broiled burgers, you're going to get a lot of charred crust, and there was plenty on the Juicy Lucy ($6.99), a signature burger. Cooked medium rare (burgers are served medium well unless otherwise specified), the meat was topped with a blue cheese sauce, iceberg lettuce, raw onions, two tomato slices and pickle chips. A nice blackened crust had formed on the patty's exterior, while its interior was dotted with pink.

This was a great burger. The patty was nicely cooked, and the strong, sharp flavor of the blue cheese sauce tempered the smokiness of the juicy meat. The square jalapeño bun, lightly buttered and toasted, was soft and flavorful.

The portobello mushroom burger ($6.49) was good, too. The portobello was marinated before being broiled, resulting in a tender texture and slightly smoky taste. We had it on the sweet, soft white bun, which are reminiscent of those served at Dutch's in Fort Worth.

There was more decision-making with the fries -- five different kinds, from curly to shoe string, dusted, if you want, with a choice of seasoning (the indecisive will go mad here). We went with the shoestring with lemon-pepper seasoning. But the thin fries were cold, and the seasoning wasn't noticeable. We had better luck with the crumb-battered onion rings, crunchy and golden brown. And, thankfully, they were only served one way: their way.

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