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Revolver Taco Lounge: a first look

Posted 9:47am on Monday, Jul. 18, 2011

West Seventh Street, proper, finally has a chic little drinking-dining venue. Or very nearly, as soon as Revolver Taco Lounge has its liquor license in place.

A stop by during opening week a few nights ago revealed a fabulous taste of good things to come from the family of Gino Rojas, a native of the Mexican state of Michoacán. Rojas, who came to Fort Worth by way of Chicago, operates a firearms store near the Stockyards but is passionate about stylish food from his original home.

That passion translates beautifully on the plate, we're happy to report. We very nearly swooned right out of our chairs when we had our first taste of hamachi, one of several crudos and ceviches on a smart menu. Paper-thin slices of the Japanese white fish, teased with olive oil, bits of tomato, cilantro, habanero and tomatillo, with a drizzle of lime, was glorious cool pampering on a white-hot night.

This we followed with an order of tacos al pastor, a quartet of tender corn tortillas - made on site in the open kitchen as you watch - filled with chopped tender marinated pork shoulder, judiciously dressed with minced fresh pineapple, cilantro and onion. Alongside, our server Marco introduced us to the house salsas, a trio of thin sauces showcasing, respectively with tomato, tomatillo and chile arbol.

Those salsas are the ideal complement to an order of the simple house guacamole -- fresh and chunky and perfect for dipping with fresh, warm, toasted tortilla chips. All of these were good accompaniments for our tall, cold glasses of Victoria, the popular Mexican beer that's finally being marketed here. Note that we brought our Victoria along with us, as the Revolver liquor license won't be in place for another three to four months.

Until that time, you can bring your own tequila to Revolver and Gino or one of his staffers will make you a magnificent margarita with fresh Mexican limes, simple syrup and a little Grand Marnier. We had those, too, served in beautiful martini glasses that match the style of the restaurant.

Which is to say, it's really very cool. A deep reddish orange shade covers most surfaces inside, against which the molded, contemporary white furnishings pop with a big "wow" factor. This is a place we can see ourselves whiling away many happy hours with friends. There's group seating, as well as tables for twosomes and foursomes, and there are comfy stools at the bar where we'll also log some time, studying Gino's assorted antique guns, embedded in the bartop.

And we'll make sure to work our way through the menu, which also includes a ceviche-style filet mignon, chicken in mole colorado and - in cooler weather, perhaps - potato-quail enchiladas.

And for those not imbibing, there are colorful aguas frescas at the counter, beyond which the Rojas family are seen cooking away in traditional clothing of the old country.

For now, Revolver Taco Lounge is open evenings only, and was set to begin accepting credit cards over the weekend (July 15th). Find it 2822 West Seventh Street, across from Lucky Strike, a few doors down from the candle store. Park in back, walk around to the front. Call the restaurant at 817.820.0122 and see the Facebook page for updates.

 

 

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