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Exploring a world of sandwich options in DFW

Posted 9:43am on Thursday, Dec. 09, 2010

In 18th-century England, the Earl of Sandwich liked to eat thin cuts of meat cushioned between slices of bread. The idea was to keep grease from the meat off His Excellence's fingers while he played cards.

If only the earl's kitchen help had slathered the bread with a spicy sauce and slapped the sandwich on a fiery grill. His card game might have suffered, with ingredients oozing down his hand, but his taste buds would have celebrated a culinary royal flush.

Hot sandwiches are an expression of the world's regional cuisines, whether toasted, grilled or fried. One of the perks of living in the 21st century is that a hungry aristocrat or even a commoner can get a taste of these influences pretty much any time at numerous eateries in North Texas.

For example, at Sonny's Diner in west Fort Worth, there's a delectable concoction known as a banh mi, a hot sandwich with Asian flavors that pays tribute to the French-colonial culinary influence in Vietnam.

Want to try what many consider the best Cuban press sandwich this side of Miami? Take a quick drive to North Richland Hills, where inside a bright-pink building, the daughter of a Cuban refugee carries on her family's culinary tradition.

For those with an appetite for flavors of the good ol' U.S.A., there's a place in Arlington that makes a heck of a grilled cheese sandwich -- and, perhaps as a symbol of American excess, it's fashioned from four types of cheese.

Ah, and then there's Lili's Bistro on Magnolia Avenue in Fort Worth, where the grilled Italian sandwich is slathered with marinara and bedecked with sliced pepperoncinis that'll slap your sinuses silly -- and leave you begging for more.

As the weather turned cooler in Tarrant County, my mission was to eat my way through panini, croque-monsieurs and other such creations, to find some of the best examples of hot sandwiches of the world. Some places I visited alone, while others I experienced with family members and co-workers.

There weren't many ground rules. At each place, a sandwich had to be presented on at least two slices of bread -- no tacos or pitas allowed -- and the bread had to be heated by grilling, frying or pretty much any other method than microwaving.

Cuco's, North Richland Hills

6650 Glenview Drive

What's hot: Cuban press sandwiches -- long sub-style rolls filled 2 inches thick with ham, pork, salami, Swiss cheese, pickles and mustard, then smashed mercilessly to less than an inch thick by an industrial-looking and steam-belching metal pressing machine -- have been a smash hit here since 1991. Founder Julio Neira opened the place, and proudly served classic fare from his native island until his 2007 death; today, other family members keep the place open in his memory.

I visited on a Saturday afternoon with my wife, 15-year-old daughter and 9-year-old son. The four of us shared two 12-inch deluxe sandwiches ($7.69 each), which included the usual Cuban press ingredients plus lettuce, tomatoes and onions. Sandwiches were cut diagonally, and served in paper-lined baskets. It was plenty of food for four people, and we each washed it down with one of the best canned drinks ever created, a 12-ounce Tropi Coco Coconut Water ($1.09 each). Lunch for four came to a bargain $21.

What else: Cuco's is in a stand-alone pink building surrounded by well-trimmed hedges in the older part of North Richland Hills. The tiny place has about a dozen tables inside and out, and walls are lined with Latin canned goods, cookies and other grocery items. But a word of warning: Bring cash or a check. Cuco's doesn't accept credit cards. I made the mistake of going without greenbacks, and when I couldn't get the ATM at the Shell station down the street to take my card, I ended up driving home for the checkbook while my family waited.

More: 817-284-1692

Daddy Jack's, downtown Fort Worth

353 Throckmorton St.

What's hot: On a recent weekday, I noticed while passing this New England-style seafood place in downtown Fort Worth that a lobster roll was a lunch special. I couldn't stop in at that moment, but the same evening I paid a visit and asked about that sandwich. The bartender checked and found out that while the lobster roll isn't on the dinner menu, the kitchen is happy to make it, so I got comfortable at the bar with a Sam Adams draught beer.

The lobster roll arrived in about five minutes and featured a toasted wheat bun and a generous portion of cold lobster salad with mayo, celery and parsley that gave the whole thing a nice clean taste.

What else: I have to admit my own ignorance here. Not being a Yankee, and having visited New England only once, I envisioned the lobster roll as a hot dish. I later learned that serving the lobster meat hot, usually with a generous splash of clarified butter, is mostly a Connecticut thing -- and in Maine or Massachusetts, a cold lobster salad is the way to go. I'm not complaining. The lobster roll, a delicious cup of New England clam chowder and the beer came to $26, including tax and tip.

More: 817-332-2477; www.daddyjacks.org

Sonny's Diner, west Fort Worth

6220 Camp Bowie Blvd.

What's hot: It turns out that a toasted French roll is just the vehicle to deliver a load of Asian flavors to your mouth. A banh mi is a Vietnamese baguette sandwich, and at Sonny's Diner, these gems are served with the customer's choice of tofu or marinated meats -- chicken, pork, beef steak, beef tenderloin or shrimp. I chose the tenderloin sandwich, which arrived at the table on a white, square plate. The baguette is nearly 8 inches long, and there are a minimum 20 cubes of steaming meat stuffed in there. The sandwich is also topped with shredded carrots, cucumber coins, several large cuts of fresh (and pretty darn hot!) jalapeño slices, a cilantro sprig and a homemade mayonnaise infused with ginger and other Asian spices.

What else: A cup of mushroom soup is a palate-cleansing side item for only $1. Also, I couldn't resist ordering a jasmine milk boba tea -- a fun drink now featured in many Asian restaurants that often includes a heaping pile of tapioca balls in the bottom of the cup (and an oversize straw to suck them out). The jasmine milk was silky and smooth, although I sort of regretted not ordering something with a little stronger, sweeter flavor -- honeydew next time, maybe. The sandwich, soup, boba tea, tax and tip came to $14.

More: 817-732-7754; www.sonnydiner.com

Olenjack's Grille, north Arlington

770 Road to Six Flags E.

What's hot: The ultimate grilled cheese sandwich, $8, is an exercise in simplicity, really. I took a seat at the bar on a recent weekday afternoon and ordered the sandwich ($8) and a Diet Pepsi ($2.25). The bartender offered a side salad instead of fries, and I gladly accepted. About 10 minutes later, the sandwich arrived on a square white plate, with the salad in a stainless-steel bowl.

There isn't much to the sandwich, and that's meant as a compliment. Two pieces of white bread were medium-toasted. Between them was a quartet of cheeses -- Gruyere, white cheddar, fontina and cotija -- each of which brought a different level of pungency, firmness and texture to the party. I was especially interested in the cotija, a hard Mexican artisan cheese that I don't think I'd ever had before. I'm not sure, but I think the cotija gave the cheese blend saltiness, and its hard character probably helped keep the ingredients together during heating.

What else: Lunch for one is $14, including a generous tip for a friendly and helpful bar man. The side salad is tasty, too, and featured greens bathed in a tomato vinaigrette and speckled with candied pecans -- love that little touch!

More: 817-226-2600; www.olenjacksgrille.com

Lili's Bistro, Fort Worth

1310 W. Magnolia Ave.

What's hot: Grilled Italian sandwich, $9. The panini-style masterpiece starts with two pieces of focaccia bread, stuffed with ham, salami, pepperoni, lettuce, tomatoes and pepperoncinis (pickled peppers). The house marinara serves as a tangy yet velvety dressing. Everything is put together between the focaccia slices, then slapped onto the same fiery grill that's used for steaks, salmon and other fare.

The sliced pepperoncinis give the sandwich a signature and surprising kick. The decision to use that ingredient was purely experimental, Lili's owner Vance Martin said.

"My distributor sent them to me by accident, and I tried to find a use for them," he said. "I tried them on the Italian sandwich, and it just worked."

The sandwich arrived on a green plate, accompanied by a can of Diet Dr Pepper alongside a 16-ounce glass piled with ice. The bread was warm and slightly crunchy, but mostly soft with a distinctive orange hue.

A co-worker joining me for lunch went with a different sandwich, a grilled corned beef accompanied by a generous portion of fontina cheese, grilled red onion and sauerkraut tucked between grilled rye bread slices. The $9 lunch entree was delicious, my pal proclaimed, although toward the end the bread was soaked with corned-beef juiciness and fell apart.

What else: No matter what you order, treat yourself to a side of waffle fries served under a pile of Gorgonzola, an Italian blue cheese ($1.50). The thought of squirting ketchup on this delightful combo of perfectly fried potatoes and crumbly, veiny cheese will never cross your mind. The two of us ate sandwiches with sides and sodas, and including tax and tip the bill came to $31.

More: 817-877-0700; www.lilisbistro.com

Chef Point Cafe, Watauga

5901 Watauga Road

What's hot: Nigerian-born Franson Nwaeze has mastered the art of comfort food at his near-legendary Chef Point Cafe, situated in a Conoco gas station. But his version of the Monte Cristo sandwich is so huge it can make you downright uncomfortable if you try to eat it all. That's not to say that the creation isn't delicious at all levels (it is). Three slices of whole-wheat bread come topped with half-inch-thick layers of medium-sliced turkey, ham, Swiss and American cheeses. The whole thing gets deep-fried, cut into quarters, dusted with powdered sugar and placed on a plate with a bonfire-shaped mound of fries and a cup of berry jam. The whole thing is only $9 -- and it's truly enough food for two adults.

What else: I visited with my wife -- this is her favorite place -- and she ordered a cioppino soup that I couldn't ignore. I talked her into a trade: I give her a fourth of my sandwich in exchange for just a sample of her Italian fish soup, with its hot tomato broth and big chunks of scallops, mussels and other ocean fare. It was a terrific trade for me, because I was on such a sugar rush from the Monte Cristo and needed something warm and nostril-teasing to settle down.

More: 817-656-0080; www.chefpointcafe.org

Main Street Bread Baking Co., Grapevine

316 S. Main St.

What's hot: A croque-monsieur, the closest the French ever got to embracing fast food. A few slices of ham and Swiss cheese are placed between slices of pugliese bread. Top it off with a brushing of béchamel sauce and more cheese (shredded this time), and you've got a tasty treat. Main Street Bread Baking Co. serves this sandwich for $10, including a bistro side salad that featured greens, feta cheese, grape tomatoes, pine nuts and a perfectly balanced lemon vinaigrette. In a tip of the cap to the hurried American lifestyle, a footnote on the menu warns patrons that the dish takes 10 minutes to prepare.

What else: This place features about a half-dozen seats inside a comfortable little bakery with pleasant salmon- and cream-colored walls, and several seats outside, where you can watch the world go by on Grapevine's historic Main Street. I stopped by at 10:30 a.m. on a recent Friday, and the people behind the counter were happy to make me an early lunch, even though everyone else in the place (mostly workers from nearby Grapevine businesses) was sipping coffee, eating pastries and working on their laptops.

The croque-monsieur with the salad and coffee, with tax, came to about $14.

More: 817-424-4333; www.themainbakery.com

Gordon Dickson, 817-390-7796

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