A heaping helping of news & reviews from DFW’s dining scene.
Getting lost and finding my way home takes virtually no effort on my part, thanks to a luxury car boasting a navigation system costing as much as some invasive medical procedures. I simply punch in some coordinates and semi-instantaneously teleport back to my pad, where my feline roommate awaits her next drop shipment of tuna-inspired treats, or whatever the heck I'm supposed to be feeding her.
So with little hesitation and even less common sense, I headed to Arlington last Saturday with the intention of getting completely lost, hoping to find a new venue to invade. Next to drinking whiskey and picking food off the table while my family says grace, getting lost is one of my favorite pastimes.
After driving by the new Cowboys Stadium and becoming terrified at how gigantic and alienlike it seemed, I turned back and ended up on Division Street. Somewhere between an abandoned parking lot and a mechanic shop, I spotted Pancho Tacos, fashioned out of what looked like an old fast-food restaurant building. The whole setup was way too intriguing to pass up, so I decided to give it a try. (Many say the same thing about my personality.)
Seats adorned in red, green and white multicolored padding fill the interior of the place, and foreign soda bottles line a wall. An old arcade game in the corner called out my video-game addiction.
Making the assumption that the restaurant had them on hand, I walked in ready to order barbacoa tacos. Barbacoa is a tender, slow-cooked meat very popular in Mexico, and has always been a personal favorite of mine, having spent most of my childhood there. Looking back, it's no wonder I was such a pudge growing up.
Travesty aside, barbacoa is straight-up flavorful when prepared properly, and Pancho Tacos certainly knows how to serve it right. In fact, this place might have the best barbacoa tacos I've ever tried (and a downright steal at $1 apiece).
Pancho is open late every day of the week, and there's no doubt I'll be stopping in during some bizarre hours for my barbacoa-taco fix. I could even grab a hamburger ($3.50) or some tortas ($4).
As I was walking out, I noticed a small area with "pan dulce," or "sweet bread," which is also very popular in Mexico but a rarity in the states. Normally I'd order some, but I knew I'd be belching taco flavor the entire ride home and I didn't want to ruin that experience.
I challenge you to go find Pancho and order some barbacoa tacos (with cilantro and lime). While you're at it, call that pitiful Tex-Mex eatery down the street and let them know they're fired.
3209 E. Division St.
Arlington
817-649-1037
