A taste of Paris in Cowtown

The first time I tasted something made by Jean-Michel Sakouhi, I felt transported to a café somewhere in the French countryside near the chef’s native Dijon. True, it helped that his Paris Bistrot sat within an endearing, 1920s building along the bricks of Dallas’ McKinney Avenue, but it was Sakouhi’s simple but precise way with classic country French fare -- exquisite escargot in puff pastry, perfect ratatouille -- that stole my heart.

Roughly a decade has passed since that experience, and Paris Bistrot is long gone, but the memory leapt readily to mind with the news that Sakouhi, now a Keller resident, would soon open a French bistro in our backyard. So7 Bistro in Fort Worth is set to open in late March.

The charming, soft-spoken chef and restaurateur sat down over a cup coffee a few days ago to chat about what led him to So7, as well as to West 7th, where he’ll open a tapas place in summer. After he opened a contemporary fusion-esque restaurant place in Southlake restaurant a few years ago, Sakouhi joined in a downtown Fort Worth venture, the Vault, only to depart in its infancy.

"There were differences in ideas in the partnership,"says Sakouhi, who went through a battle with cancer at the same time, nearly two years ago. I decided I needed to leave. Sometimes you have to agree to disagree and learn from your mistakes."

Rebounding from health issues and regrouping after his split from the Vault partners, Sakouhi yearned to return to his roots. The result is So7 Bistro, which will overlook the north end of Trinity Park, near the Duck Pond.

The lunch menu stars include soupe a l'oignon gratinee, or French onion soup with Gruyere, and croque madame or warm ham and gruyere cheese sandwich with Bechamel sauce and a quail egg. At dinner, choices include lapin a la moutarde, mustard pulled rabbit/red potato/herbed tomato, and tagine d'agneau, slow cooked leg of lamb/sweet potato/tomato confit. The Sunday brunch menu is still in the works.

"I’m calling it French-American, where traditional French cuisine meets the flavors of the American palate," he says. "The seasonal menu will highlights the quality of fine organic ingredients served in a modern setting."

By early summer, his tapas restaurant called Bodega will open in West 7th at the corner of Seventh and Currie streets. A two-story café, Bodega will feature a roof-top bar, offer live jazz and serve casual Spanish dishes. Coffee fans will be pleased to find Bodega serving Segafredo, an Italian coffee brand beloved in the Caribbean and in Florida.

In a marked departure from such European leanings, Sakouhi is also opening a burgers-and-wings place in Keller called Torpedos. A place to watch ballgames or bring the family after a soccer game, this casual bar and grill will soon occupy the space vacated by Caballeros.

Visit Sakouhi later this month at So7B Bistro, 2401 West Seventh St. at Museum Way, Suite 117, Fort Worth. 817-878-4311, www.so7bistro.com