A heaping helping of news & reviews from DFW’s dining scene.
Richard W. Rodriguez
Cafe latte with French silk pie at Buon Giorno Coffee in Colleyville.
The place: Buon Giorno Coffee
The cuisine: Coffee, tea, soda, smoothies, panini, quiches, croissants, bagels and other desserts
The back story: The owners, David and Leyna Clarke, wanted to create the kind of coffee shop they'd grown to love while living in Europe. Their goal was an alcohol-free place where anybody can chill and chew the fat -- or a tasty pastry. Buon Giorno's motto is, "Life is too short for bad coffee."
The drinks: The menu listed about 30 tea varieties, and one or two mild-mannered types appeared to be reading their leaves, but real caffiends will go straight for the gusto: a latte, for example -- three shots of espresso, a creamy top and a fern design swirled into the foam, in a big black and red cup ($3.35). Ours didn't have the over-roasted taste some shops seem to turn out.
There's also a drip coffee of the day, with prices ranging from $1.65 to $1.85, and refills are 70 cents. But caffeistas who want to leave the beaten path should mull the choices from around the equatorial coffee belt. Beans from about 13 African, Asian, South American and Central American nations are represented, and with roasting taking place every day but Wednesday, there's probably a Kenyan or Ethiopian selection you'll want to sample among the 20 or so available at any time. Beans are available for sale by weight.
The snacks: Now, panini are nothing but an Italian sandwich, and as sandwich experts, we feel qualified to say that Buon Giorno's panini were good but could be easily improved with a quick fix: Go crazy and put a little bit of sauce on that meatball/provolone version ($5.95), for example. The bread was golden, toasted whole-grain with appetizing sandwich-grill marks, but the end product was ever-so-slightly dry. Ditto for the avocado/provolone panino ($6.95). It had good ingredients, but it needed mayo to moisten things for this set of American taste buds.
No grounds for remorse, however, in the pastry case. If the drive to Grapevine makes you too hungry to wait for them to construct that midday panino, dial up a little instant gratification with a homemade lemon-poppy scone ($1.95); break off a hunk and dip it in that latte. Better yet: a big, moist bran muffin ($2.25) with a lush, buttery aftertaste
And props to Buon Giorno for featuring quiches, scones and shortbreads made on-site by the owners' daughter-in-law. It's one of the ways the store distinguishes itself from the competition and underscores the indie identity.
The scene: What with the condensation on the plate-glass windows concealing the outside world, panini fans lining the counter, loners with laptops on the couches and the 1,000-pound maroon and gold Diedrich coffee roaster churning in one corner, it could have been a cold day in Milan instead of a strip center west of Texas 121 in Grapevine. Also nice: The alcove/retreat in the rear created a good nook for an interview or a hideout for folks seeking a rat-race pit stop. Several generations of customers seemed to be peacefully co-existing during our recent visit.
The service: Despite running full-tilt during what looked like an extended snow-day rush, the young folks behind the counter quickly and politely hopped over to the table with condiments when asked and were unfailingly pleasant.
You should know: It offers free Wi-Fi and drive-up express service. Also, check the Web site for a live-music/open-mic schedule.
Details: Open 6 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Friday, 7 a.m.-11 p.m. Saturday, 8 a.m.-4 p.m. Sunday. Major credit cards accepted; smoking outside only; wheelchair-accessible.
2350 Hall Johnson Road,
Suite 100, Grapevine
817-421-7300
