2 for $20: Zoe's is pretty and delicious

I'm a bit ashamed to admit this, but I first stepped into Zoë's Kitchen because of its color palette: vertical bands of lime greens, oranges and blues made me smile, and the retro-modern vibe was very inviting.

But was I judging a book by its cover? Or its color? I had to investigate.

The restaurant, which has three DFW locations, distinguishes itself from most chains and their often heart-stopping fat content with a simple subtitle: Smart, Eat Fresh. (Omnivores, don't be frightened. This ain't no tofu palace.)

Zoë's offers Greek-flavored Mediterranean lunches and dinners. The Plano location recently joined two other Dallas Zoë's (one in Highland Park, the other at Lover's Lane and the Dallas North Tollway).

The options on the reasonably priced menu were so expansive, my dining companion and I took a while to study the counter menu board. We mulled soups (Chicken & Orzo), roll-ups, kabobs (chicken, shrimp and salmon), salads -- from a Hummus Salad Plate to, naturally, Greek salad -- and sandwiches, which ran the gamut from standard tuna salad and egg salad to Grilled Chicken & Slaw Pita, and Zoë's Club Pita. (Many of the items are labeled "heart-healthy.")

We couldn't come to a Mediterranean place without testing the Hummus & Pita ($4.45). The verdict? The pita was dry, but the hummus more than made up for it: perfectly textured and flavored. (A better bet for pita lovers: Zoë's handmade pita chips, which are crispy and nicely seasoned.)

Our second appetizer was actually a side dish: the pasta salad ($1.99). Mixed through with creamy feta cheese, the tomato- and basil-laden pasta had a wonderfully surprising kick. It was gobbled up within minutes.

My companion's entree was the Greek Chicken Marinara ($8.95). A bed of orzo was topped with strips of flat-grilled chicken and a bright, chunky marinara that looked -- and tasted -- as if someone had just plucked the ripest tomato off the vine and cooked up some magic. (Bonus points for the fresh-cut basil.) If you prefer your marinara with a bite to it, you won't find it here; this sauce was mild -- but not bland -- and extremely fresh. We'd order this dish again in a heartbeat.

But next time, we might see if we could substitute something for the side Greek salad. It wasn't bad -- as with everything at Zoë's, all the feta and veggies were super-fresh, and the presentation was gorgeous. But we both found the dressing bland; we tasted mostly olive oil, when our mouths were craving a little more vinegar, and preferably some oregano and/or lemon.

For my main dish, I went for the "Gruben." ($6.99 ). It was a "Zoë's favorite," and I can see why. This is probably the best Ruben-inspired sandwich I've ever had (no hurl-worthy Thousand Island dressing, thank heavens). This grilled turkey sammie came on rye (crispy perfection) with a brilliantly balanced combination of Swiss cheese, slaw and spicy mustard. Not one wrong note in this delectable sandwich.

With so many more potentially delicious notes to try, we're anxious to get back to Zoë's, where the book blissfully matched the cover.

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Zoë's Kitchen

1901 Preston Road, Plano

(other Dallas locations at Lover's Lane & the Dallas North Tollway and Snider Plaza)

972-248-1010; www.zoeskitchen.com