A heaping helping of news & reviews from DFW’s dining scene.
Alo Cenaduria and Piqueos
Since 2001, La Duni Latin Cafe has served as one of Dallas’ most cosmopolitan yet unpretentious restaurants — a fun, affordable drop-in at Knox and McKinney. A second spinoff, just as charming, opened in 2004 on Oak Lawn at the edge of Highland Park.
But for their third venture, called Alo Cenaduria and Piqueos, chef-owners Dunia and Espartaco Borga have homed in on foods from Mexico and Peru, with a menu of small plates co-conceived with executive chef Julia Lopez.
The meal started brightly with an irresistible complimentary snack of cancha (or dried Peruvian corn). It was like an exotic version of Corn Nuts, but not so crunchy-hard; rather, served toasty-warm and generously sprinkled with salt. This is also served gratis in the stylish bar, perfect with exotic, delicious fruity cocktails such as the chichi ($9.50), combining rum, gin and vodka with a luscious sweet purple corn puree.
The goal here is to share; the dashing young servers brought items in a procession rather than all at once. Peruvian specialties included anticuchos (skewered meat) — choice of pork, chicken and shrimp ($8.95-$9.75) — and a daily ceviche ($7.50), with diced fish marinated in lime and chile.
White corn on the cob ($1.95) evoked elotes, the popular Mexican street food. Coated with cream, chile powder and a dusting of white cojita cheese, the cobs were cut into chunks that made them easier to pick up and eat.
Gringas were like grilled quesadillas, but with intriguing fillings like chicken with spinach and goat cheese ($9.75), mmm. Sarten enchiladas were baked in a skillet and served that way, with choice of chicken ($9.75), lobster ($13) and shrimp ($11.75), three to an order, all rolled in sturdy corn tortillas.
Saltados, Peruvian-style stir-fries, are also served on a skillet. Pork ($13.50) had strips of tender meat in a juicy sauce with contrasting notes of sweet and spicy-hot. (Saltados can also be ordered with beef, chicken or seafood.)
Like La Duni, Alo has a lively, urban atmosphere and Dunia’s famed desserts, including her signature cuatro leches cake ($7.75), served with a pool of milky sauce and a row of fresh berries.
Cuisine: Latin
Essentials: Full bar; major credit cards accepted; smoke-free; wheelchair-accessible
Entree cost: $13-$25 per serving
Signature dish: Fried seafood platter
Noise level: Crazy noisy
Good to know: Typical entree easily feeds two or maybe four
Recommended for: Peruvian fans and urban sophisticates
This review originally appeared in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram on Friday, Oct. 5, 2007.
