Restaurateur Tina Vorachack has already carved out a space for herself as Fort Worth&rsquo;s first lady of Thai, but with the relocation of Thai Tina&rsquo;s into downtown, she seals the deal.</p><p>The restaurant&rsquo;s mix of traditional and fusion Thai dishes has never seemed more exciting, and that&rsquo;s matched by its intriguing, counterintuitive location in the lobby of the recently remodeled Embassy Suites.</p><p>This used to be the Elements bar, and you still get the bar feeling, given the lack of an official door. (A hostess stand at the end of the space provides the tip-off that this is a restaurant.) Tables wrap around the bar in a U; booths along the wall are hidden behind swanky translucent curtains.</p><p>With its juxtaposition of spicy, sweet and hot flavors, Thai food is a crowd-pleaser; but Thai Tina&rsquo;s modern take makes it even hotter. Side by side with Thai classics such as pad Thai ($8.95 lunch, $10.95 dinner) are fusion items like Thai tacos ($14.95) and lamb chops ($15.95 lunch, $17.95 dinner). </p><p>Thai hot and sour soup ($4.95 for small, $9.95 large) made a wonderfully pristine starter with its juxtaposition of fresh vegetables and chile heat. Served in a neat square bowl, it was a clear broth brimming with julienned carrot and onion, fresh cilantro, mushrooms, tomato wedges and chunks of avocado, tossed in at the last minute and still firm. You can get it plain or add a protein such as shrimp, chicken or tofu.</p><p>The spring roll appetizer ($4.95) features a distinctive twist. This rice-paper-wrapped roll is usually served whole or perhaps cut in half, but here, they cut it into eight bites, like a sushi roll, then top it with the selected protein. </p><p>Grilled Thai beef salad ($14.95) is a Tina specialty, and rightly so. Thin slices of marinated grilled beef were spread over a salad of mixed greens and crunchy romaine tossed in a refreshing dressing. The flavor of the beef had a terrific sweet-hot complexity, along with tasty charred bits from the grill. </p><p>A number of duck dishes, including one with a ginger-tamarind glaze ($14.95), are offered. Thick slices of tender duck breast with bits of skin were combined with onion, carrot, sprouts and pineapple chunks. </p><p>Our young server, though sweet, neglected to offer dessert, but Tina herself swept by and suggested the house favorite: mango and sticky rice ($3.85). It was a nice ending to a lovely meal.</p><p><hr class="infobox-hr-separator" /> <div class="infobox"> <strong><span class="infobox-head">Thai Tina&rsquo;s </span></strong><br /> 600 Commerce St., Fort Worth</p><p>817-332-0088</p><p><strong>Hours: </strong>11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday</p><p><strong>Cuisine: </strong>Asian/Thai</p><p><strong>Signature dish: </strong>Grilled beef salad</p><p><strong>Entree cost: </strong>$8-$18.95</p><p><strong>Essentials: </strong>Major credit cards; full bar; smoke-free; wheelchair-accessible</p><p><strong>Good to know: </strong>Located in the lobby of Embassy Suites</p><p><strong>Recommended for: </strong>Thai food fans in the mood for more than just pad Thai</p><p></div>