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Wednesday, Oct. 28, 2009

The rundown of Fo-Wo fro-yo, from sweet to tart

We rate 4 spots on the flourishing Fo-Wo frozen-yogurt scene, from sweet to tart.



 Paul Moseley

Paul Moseley

Paul Moseley

How many frozen-yogurt shops can one city handle? And why, exactly, are there so many of them popping up all at once? These thoughts occurred to us as we were driving down University Drive in Fort Worth a few weeks ago and saw a sign announcing that Menchie’s was setting up shop next to the Apple store. It joins an already crowded marketplace that also includes BerriBlu, Frogberry and Yogolait.

The fro-yo craze of the 1980s enjoyed a renaissance in 2005, with the opening of Pinkberry in Los Angeles — a shop that specialized in one tart flavor and quickly expanded to dozens of other cities across the country. (The Dallas Pinkberry opens Nov. 12.)

The good news about the new Fort Worth shops: Three out of four are locally owned businesses that haven’t yet sold their souls to the corporate devil. Add in Wi-Fi and a cafelike atmosphere, and you have a terrific Twitter-age alternative to Starbucks. The bad news? Unless the entire city goes on an all-frozen-yogurt diet, it might be tough for all of these places to survive. We decided to test them out to see which are most deserving of our money and our (low-cal) indulgence.

BerriBlu

6008 Camp Bowie Blvd., 817-735-1095, www.berriblu.com

The back story: Husband and wife Rod and Felicia Stanhope say they are striving for an "un-coffee shop" in this sleek spot near La Madeleine that opened this year.

The taste test: My first stop on the fro-yo tour proved pleasantly surprising. It had been years since I’d tasted frozen yogurt, and I wasn’t sure what to expect — I had visions of an era of watery-tasting yogurt with floating ice particles. Thankfully, the cookies-and-cream flavor (topped with coconut) was nothing like my horrid memory; BerriBlu’s version was smooth and creamy, with a subtle yet sweet taste. Even more impressive are the stylish furnishings — inviting leather couches and hip metal tables — that give the space a lounge-y feel; the perk of free Wi-Fi makes BerriBlu a perfect spot for students.

Fun fact: BerriBlu’s flavors change daily, and no treat is more than 110 calories per serving (4 ounces).

Take note: If you’re counting calories, watch your portions: At BerriBlu, the smallest available serving size is 8 ounces.

Rating: 3 spoons

Frogberry

3043 Greene Ave., 817-926-0266, www.frogberryogurt.com

The back story: Inspired by the success of places like Pinkberry, Chad Estes opened this eco-friendly spot near TCU in fall 2008.

The taste test: Frogberry looked promising: There was a long line (always a good sign) and a trendy environmental consciousness in the air (almost every utensil, cup or straw is made from recycled materials). But the flavors didn’t quite click: I tried the natural tart, cake batter and pomegranate/raspberry flavors, and each was disappointing. The natural tart had the tang and slightly sour taste of sugary buttermilk, the cake batter was far too sweet, and the pomegranate/raspberry didn’t taste like either of the two fruits.

Fun fact: Frogberry offers free Wi-Fi, and it’s a bright, relaxed space where can you hang for hours with friends.

Take note: If you’re looking for traditional frozen yogurt with an ice-cream taste, Frogberry isn’t the place.

Rating: 2 spoons

Yogolait

3250 Hulen St., #130, 817-732-3366, www.yogolait.com

The back story: This family-run shop, which says it specializes in honesty and hospitality, opened its doors in mid-September.

The taste test: Here, customers serve themselves, select their toppings and pay not by serving size but by weight (47 cents an ounce). There were several flavors to choose from and a large toppings bar (try the mochi). I picked up my cup, selected three flavors (cookies ’n’ cream, Tahitian vanilla and strawberry sensation) and toppings, and was on my way. Finally, I’d found the place that gave me the taste I was after: creamy, rich and flavorful — almost as good as actual ice cream.

Fun fact: If you want to follow the behind-the-scenes action at Yogolait, check out the store’s surprisingly entertaining blog.

Take note: Yogolait’s frozen yogurt contains slightly more fat than its peers (a half gram versus no fat), but trust me, the slight difference is well worth it.

Rating: 4 spoons

Menchie’s

1620 S. University Drive, 817-332-9866, www.menchies.com (expected to open in November)

The back story: Like Pinkberry, this is a rapidly expanding chain that originated in California. We decided to check out the recently opened Dallas location, in Highland Park Village, to get a sneak peek.

The taste test: Menchie’s offers a self-serve setup similar to Yogolait’s, though the Highland Park spot lacks Yogolait’s comfortable feel. I tried every flavor available during my visit. I chose a waffle bowl (made fresh when ordered) and filled it with vanilla, pralines ’n’ cream and cookies ’n’ cream. I added several toppings, including mini dark chocolate chips. I was pleased with the creamy, smooth taste. Less pleasing was how watery the frozen yogurt became toward the end.

Fun fact: Splurge on the warm peanut-butter sauce; it’s fantastic.

Take note: The low-carb angel-food cake flavor may sound like a dream, but it’s more of a nightmare.

Rating: 2 spoons

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