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Wednesday, Oct. 14, 2009

Lobster and top-notch sirloin make Lucile’s a must

Lucile's, the charming bistro on the bricks, is still one of the best values in the Metroplex.


Lobster-stuffed mushrooms 
 BRANDON WADE

BRANDON WADE

Lobster-stuffed mushrooms BRANDON WADE


Lobster Escab&eacute;che, a Lobsterama appetizer with lobster chunks, avocado, chopped lettuce, pico de gallo and spicy tomato sauce layered in a martini glass and served with homemade pita chips ($8.95)  
 Brandon Wade

Brandon Wade

Lobster Escabéche, a Lobsterama appetizer with lobster chunks, avocado, chopped lettuce, pico de gallo and spicy tomato sauce layered in a martini glass and served with homemade pita chips ($8.95) Brandon Wade

Like a sunset or a spouse, Lucile’s is too easy to take for granted.

The charming bistro on the bricks in west Fort Worth has been serving up superior steaks, chicken and seafood since 1992, and its prices are still in the reasonable range. Yet as time has worn on and flashier restaurants have moved in, Lucile’s doesn’t leap to mind the way it did when I moved to town in 2001.

A recent trip back changed all that. My mother-in-law was visiting from Virginia and had fond memories of Lucille’s, so we pulled in there on a chilly Tuesday night and reconnected with this old friend, one of the best values in the Metroplex.

We had arrived on Day 2 of Lobsterama, an annual promotion that includes an impressive menu of Maine Lobster appetizers, soups and entrees. (Lobsterama runs four to six weeks, depending on supply.)

We started with the lobster-stuffed mushrooms ($7.95) and could have ended right there and been satisfied. A generous portion of firm and smoky-flavored mushroom caps were stuffed with a lightly spiced lobster mix and swimming in a shallow pool of garlic cream sauce. The kind you want to bathe in.

My 5-year-old son gobbled up more than half of the order before the rest of us could grab more than one cap.

No matter, because we were busy enjoying our salads, made with the signature bleu cheese vinaigrette dressing. It combines the flavor you love without the guilt-laden cream and crumbles. Toasted sesame seeds add a nice crunch to the lettuce and cucumbers.

I’d also recommend the lobster bisque ($5.95) as a starter. Made fresh daily, the bisque is very rich with a few delicate chunks of lobster swimming at the bottom.

For our entrees, my mother-in-law could not pass up the Live Maine Lobster special ($13.95). So she strapped on a plastic bib and dug into a crustacean that was moderately sized but sweet and tender. After dipping a piece of lobster meat in the hot drawn butter, my son gave it his culinary seal of approval: "Better than hot dogs!"

The side of roasted corn potato cakes ($2.95) were perfectly crispy with a cayenne-flavored kick. They disappeared in a flash.

I had the Lucile’s sirloin ($21.95), which I’d argue is one of the most underrated steaks in town. Nicely seared with peppercorns on the outside, it came to the table exactly how I’d ordered it inside: medium rare, juicy and full of flavor. At $21.95, it stands tall next to many $35 steaks I’ve had in Fort Worth.

The accompanying baked potato was unremarkable, but that just meant more room for dessert.

The upside-down pecan pie ($5.95) was heavenly, with the nuts blended beautifully throughout. The chocolate cake ($5.95), while a mammoth piece, was one of the few ordinary things we ate all night. The bill for four of us was $87, before tip.

On the ride home, I was feeling a little guilty that I’d overlooked Lucile’s for the last six months or so. But I won’t be making that mistake again. We’ll be back for the pork chops, wood-fired vegetables and bananas Foster that I first fell for. And I can’t let Lobsterama pass without at least one more order of those stuffed mushrooms.


Lucile’s Stateside Bistro 4700 Camp Bowie Blvd., Fort Worth

817-738-4761

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