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Wednesday, Oct. 07, 2009

Flavor, freshness piled high at Burger Island

Burger Island is a Colleyville retreat with big flavor and fresh, inventive toppings.

Special to dfw.com


The loaded Jungle Burger with fries at Burger Island in Colleyville  
 Star-Telegram/Ron T. Ennis

Star-Telegram/Ron T. Ennis

The loaded Jungle Burger with fries at Burger Island in Colleyville Star-Telegram/Ron T. Ennis

One thing we do not lack in North Texas is burger spots, and here’s one more: Burger Island, which recently opened a branch in Colleyville, in a space formerly occupied by yet another burger place called Old 7.

Burger Island is part of a local chain founded in Garland seven years ago, and currently has 11 branches in and around Dallas. The burgers are big and full of flavor, with lots of inventive variations and extra-fresh topping ingredients. Add in excellent hand-cut fries and distinctive milkshakes, and it’s no surprise the chain is growing.

Burgers ran from the basic ($4.25), with shredded lettuce, sliced tomato, pickles and mayo, to the absurdly large Double Jungle Burger ($7.65), with two half-pound patties of beef, plus bacon, sautéed onions and mushrooms, jalapeños, bell peppers, American and provolone cheese, mayo, ketchup, hickory sauce, mustard, lettuce, and tomato. A Hawaiian ($5.95) has pineapple and ham; the pizza burger ($5.25) has marinara sauce; and there’s a veggie burger ($4.75), too.

They also do Philly sandwiches, cold subs, a few salads and a slew of nifty appetizers such as fried pickles ($4.55) and Buffalo wings ($3.95). Everything was made to order; they deliver it to your table, and there’s a small wait. At the Colleyville branch, that meant sitting back in one of the no-fuss booths or at high tables and watching the flat-screen TV.

The food was worth the wait. The Jungle Burger ($5.95) had one beef patty, and with all of its toppings, it was more than a meal. What stood out was the excellent quality of the ingredients. Everything seemed intelligently engineered. Mushrooms, for example, were chopped roughly and sautéed until golden brown and extra flavorful. Sautéed jalapeños were cut thick enough that you could still discern their texture and heat. Cheese was applied in the right quantity to hold it all together but not so much as to overwhelm.

The turkey cheeseburger ($4.75) got a thumbs-up, as its shards of white-meat turkey seemed more like the real deal than the usual ground crumble. Cracked pepper added an appealing "speckle" and a satisfying peppery bite. Like the beef burgers, it came on a fresh, broad bun that was soft and airy but not squishy — the perfect supporting player.

Onion rings ($2.75) were the real deal, with varied ring sizes and widths coated in a fine, crunchy batter. French fries ($1.95) were hand-cut, skin-on, a deep golden brown and slightly crunchy, with a salty seasoning that made them good even without ketchup. Milkshakes ($2.95) in vanilla, chocolate and strawberry were simply made, with ice cream, milk and syrup: perfection.


Burger Island
3930 Glade Road, #101, Colleyville

817-494-9600

www.burgerislandonline.com/Home.php

Hours: 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Friday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Saturday and Sunday

Cuisine: Burgers

Signature dish: Jungle Burger

Entree cost: $5-$8

Essentials: Major credit cards; no alcohol; smoke-free; wheelchair-accessible.

Good to know: On Sundays, if you order a specialty burger, you get a cheaper one free; kids menu.

Recommended for: Burgerphiles

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