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Wednesday, Sep. 30, 2009

5 & Diner in Arlington has something for everyone

The place: 5 & Diner Delux

The cuisine: All-day breakfast, burgers, sandwiches, dinner plates, shakes

The draw: A newish outpost of an Arizona-based chain, this cafe’s tagline is "Food, Fun & Fifties!" Soda-shop kitsch rules in this arrangement of tables and booths. It’s a little bit of Al’s from Happy Days, just without Ralph, Potsy and the Fonz.

The food: The expansive menu takes a page (or several) from the something-for-everyone restaurant handbook. Meat and potatoes? Check. All kinds of breakfast? Yep. More than a dozen burgers and sandwiches? Yeah. Obligatory salads? Sure. Some Mexican influences? Sí.

Three of us began supper with the Southwestern egg rolls ($6.99), fried, flaky cylinders filled with a mix of chopped chicken, roasted corn and black beans, served with a thin queso sauce for dipping. Other starters good for sharing include mozzarella sticks with marinara ($5.59) and Buffalo wings ($7.29).

From a long list of breakfast skillets, the one called Joe’s ($8.99) held a mix of charbroiled ground beef, crumbled and mixed with sautéed mushrooms, onion, spinach and country potatoes, topped with Parmesan, sour cream and two eggs. But our requested over-easy arrived cooked through.

Chipotle mayo, pepper jack cheese and a roasted green chile strip jazzed up a grilled chicken-breast sandwich ($7.99). Fries were OK, if from a frozen bag.

We settled on the Cadillac Meat Loaf ($10.99), which arrived as a mountain of food. Uniform slices didn’t strike us as homemade, as promised on the menu, but the treatment of chopped bacon, molasses glaze, sautéed mushrooms and crunchy onion straws all atop a bunker of red-skin mashed potatoes masked the blandness beneath.

The drink: With a full bar, all sorts of cocktails can be had. A limited wine list may have your choice in stock.

The service: Our server was sweet and attentive, if not experienced. She was the only person working the dining room, so dishes and drinks came in fits and starts.

The details: Open 7 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 7 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Full bar. Major credit cards accepted; smoke-free; wheelchair accessible.

— June Naylor, Special to the Star-Telegram


5 & Diner Delux
522 Lincoln Square

Arlington

817-277-7900

www.5anddiner.com

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