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Wednesday, Sep. 16, 2009

Celebrity cowboy chef Tim Love builds a new Shack in So7

Fort Worth’s celebrity cowboy chef, Tim Love, builds a new Shack in So7

Special to dfw.com

Lonesome Dove Western Bistro may be the signature restaurant for which Fort Worth chef Tim Love has long been known, but when it came time to expand in the artsy new So7 complex, he chose to open a second branch of Love Shack, the burger joint that he first opened in the Stockyards in 2007.

Love Shack is probably a better fit, with its $10-$15 price range and low-key vibe. Like the original, this new spinoff, just off Seventh Street, is ultra-casual and extremely open, although it does represent a step up from the authentic shacklike personality of the original. The So7 outpost has a defined dining area, with marble-topped tables, a beautiful white-tiled floor and a bar in the center. There’s cold Tuaca on tap, as well as distinctive drinks, such as the jalapeño-cucumber margarita ($8), whose unique combination of refreshment and heat makes it strangely addictive.

The menu has been expanded, as well. Of course there are Love’s signature Love burgers and Dirty Love burgers (with bacon, lettuce, tomato, Love sauce, American cheese, pickle and a fried quail egg, $5.77 for a single, $7.39 for a double). But there are also salads, a grilled chicken sandwich ($5.77) — known as the Love Bird — and a vegetarian Boom Boom burger ($4.62) made with a portobello mushroom.

The chicken breast was fall-apart tender and just the right thickness to make its presence known but not so thick that it wasn’t manageable. The Boom Boom was the real treat, with a crosswise slice of portobello that had been battered and fried.

A Love Fish sandwich ($6.47) consisted of a thick hunk of Alaskan halibut, its edges sporting a decent crust and the rest cooked until fall-apart tender. It was very tasty but sloppier than some of the other menu items.

Fries, onion rings and house-made Parmesan-sprinkled potato chips have been brought over intact from the Stockyards, but skip those for the best fried food of all: fried port salut ($7.25), Love’s high-end version of fried mozzarella sticks. Rectangles of cheese were covered in a tempura coating that had the irresistible chewy-crisp texture of a beer batter but without a speck of grease.

They came with a sophisticated romanesco sauce that had been kicked up with smoked paprika, but the cheese sticks were so good on their own, it was almost a shame to dip them. You only get four to an order, and they go down easy; act accordingly.

Love’s shakes ($2.31 small, $3.23 large) remain among the best around: rich and thick and in a variety of flavors such as chocolate mint that change daily.

One new feature at the So7 location is the splendid patio, filled with chic outdoor furniture and cheerful umbrellas. This is a patio that won’t quit, not even during a recent rainstorm, when Love covered the whole area with white tents. Bands play here, and there’s chalk and beanbag games for the kids, making this the most family-friendly hipster patio in town.


Love Shack
817 Matisse St., Fort Worth (at So7 complex)

817-348-9655

www.loveburgershack.com

Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday

Cuisine: Burgers

Signature dish: Dirty Love burger

Entree cost: $8.95-$10.95

Essentials: Major credit cards; full bar; smoking allowed on the patio; wheelchair-accessible

Good to know: Kids menu; noisy atmosphere; outdoor patio; major credit cards accepted

Recommended for: Burger aficionados and the Tim Love fan club

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