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Wednesday, Sep. 09, 2009

Home cooking and football, perfect together

Special to DFW.com

Any restaurant that has the fortune of residing on Collins Street in Arlington is surely pinching itself right now. The arrival of the new Cowboys Stadium seems likely to have a beneficial effect, even for restaurants like Southern Recipes Grill, situated a couple miles north of the shiny new dome.

Then again, this home-cooking spot has its own following, thanks to its thick-crusted chicken-fried steak, relaxed patio and full bar with Shiner on tap.

The CFS ($8.95) was rib-eye, cut about a half-inch thick, meaty in flavor and nicely tenderized. Its crunchy battered crust bubbled up in places and fell away in other spots, but it was all good. White cream gravy with a peppery tang was ladled over, with a few spots of that fine crust peeking out around the edge.

Fried catfish ($9.95) gave the CFS a run for its money, with five or six small filets fried in a light-and-crunchy cornmeal crust. With all entrees, you get your choice of a warm buttery roll or cornbread, in a generous mini-loaf format, plus two sides.

Mashed potatoes were the obvious favorite, with a lump or two — just enough to let you know that they were made from scratch. These would be good even without the spoonful of cream gravy. Seasoned rice had a kind of generic Rice-A-Roni appeal with its uniformly applied green seasoning mix. Corn and black-eyed peas seemed canned, and the watery mixed veggies were definitely frozen, while coleslaw had a tang that would appeal only to those who like their cabbage fermented.

You also get soup or salad, a good deal given the $10-or-under price range for most of these entrees. Soup on a recent weekend day was gumbo with a good dose of okra. Salad was strictly the lettuce-and-tomato variety with random grated carrot, served on a clear glass refrigerated plate, but it’s at least fresh if you want something crunchy and raw.

Appetizers were nearly all fried, with the most intriguing being fried green beans ($5.95), nice bright green round ones in a thick brown crust, served with a small bowl of thin Ranch dressing. The menu also has pasta, burgers and sandwiches, as well as a generous selection of omelets available on Saturdays and Sundays. Desserts included pies, and there’s a $3.95 kid’s menu, too.

The atmosphere was pleasant and low-key, although we wondered why condiments such as ketchup and tartar sauce were served in little plastic to-go containers; why not just serve ketchup in the bottle? Service was quick and friendly, if occasionally distracted. The restaurant is spacious with a bar, two dining areas and a patio that overlooks a back yard — perhaps a good spot to retire after a game down the road.


Southern Recipes Grill
2715 N. Collins St., Arlington

817-469-9878

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Friday, 8 a.m.-9 p.m. Saturday, 8 a.m.-4 p.m. Sunday

Cuisine: Southern/home cooking

Signature dish: Chicken-fried steak

Entree cost: $8-13

Essentials: Smoke-free; wheelchair-accessible; major credit cards; full bar

Good to know: Pleasant patio; kids menu

Recommended for: Home-cooking fans

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