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closeWednesday, Sep. 09, 2009
New and notable owners make the barbecue tops at new Smokey's
The eastside Fort Worth landmark is back and it may be better than ever
By JUNE NAYLOR
Special to dfw.com
The name Smokey’s should be familiar to all longtime Fort Worth residents, particularly those who love good barbecue. The eastside landmark fell on hard times, though, closing and reopening enough so that folks just lost confidence in its staying power.
But there’s a new boss over yonder now, and it’s possible that Smokey’s Barbeque is as good as ever — maybe better. Today it’s run by the Deens, a big name in barbecue for a good while, thanks to a huge catering operation in Dallas. The Deen family has had a restaurant in East Texas in the past, but this is the first in the Dallas-Fort Worth area.
Taking a friend for lunch the other day, I went with a bit of skepticism. But after tackling a giant tray of barbecue goods at the new edition of Smokey’s — occupying what looks like a former Dairy Queen or similar burger operation from the 1950s — I’m inclined to think that this one will stick around. We’ve even begun discussing a return trip.
Favorite bites came from the sausage, a beef version in a pork casing, flecked with bits of jalapeño. Surprisingly, it’s not too spicy, and I like its fresh flavor, devoid of the nitrites that often show up in kielbasa and others. The tender, meaty pork ribs are St. Louis-style (cut from spare ribs to create a neat rack), rubbed by the Deens in salt and pepper, and finished with a thin, sweet glaze that my friend likened to a candy coating.
Beef brisket offered a pretty ring but not much of a crust; the edges seemed a bit dry, but the thicker side of the slices held a little more moisture. A dab or two of the sauce, which is medium-weight and evenly balanced between sweet and smoky, boosted the brisket’s appeal. Piled onto the toasty, buttered buns stacked on our tray of meat, the brisket makes a remarkably good sandwich.
Serve-yourself sides drew approval, too: The potato salad tends to be a smoother texture than most, but the inclusion of freshly sliced hard-boiled egg tells you that this is house-made; coarsely cut cabbage makes for good, if simple, coleslaw; and fresh, unadulterated pinto beans are among the best we’ve had in ages. Condiments include onion slices, pickles, sweet-tart relish and jalapeños.
Smokey’s prices are par for the market. Sandwiches, which come with one side, are $5.95 to $7.95. Plates include the Ace ($8.99), with one meat and two sides; the Eli ($10.99), with two meats and two sides; the Cool Hand Luke ($12.99), with three meats and two sides; and the Sampler ($14.99), with four meats and two sides.
Saving room for dessert is critical at Smokey’s, because the vanilla-buttermilk pie ($1.95 per slice) may be the best in town. The creamy filling is not overly sweet, and the crust goes to flaky crumbles when nudged by a fork. We cooed aloud at each bite.
For a treat, the Deens do Sunday dinner, too. That’s that traditional big midday meal that isn’t really called lunch in the South. You can have chicken-fried steak or chicken-fried chicken ($6.95) with an assortment of sides that change weekly but are typically goodies like turnip greens, green beans, mashed potatoes, creamed corn and cabbage.
Just don’t be late, or they’ll be out of vanilla-buttermilk pie.
5300 E. Lancaster Ave.
Fort Worth
817-451-8222
Hours: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Sunday
Cuisine: Texas barbecue
Essentials: Beer; smoke-free; major credit cards; wheelchair-accessible.
Entrees: $5.95-$14.99
Signature dishes: Jalapeño sausage; St. Louis-style ribs; vanilla-buttermilk pie
Recommended for: families hungry for hickory-smoked ’cue
Good to know: Mexican Coke and Jarritos; Sunday lunch specials; ribs sold by the rack, too.
june@junenaylor.com
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