With nine tables in a shoe box of a storefront and a tiny open kitchen in back, separated only by a shelf of olive oils, wineglasses and wine, it doesn&rsquo;t get more casual than Urbano Cafe.</p><p>The Urbano Club panino ($6.50), filled with smoked turkey, prosciutto, pancetta, fontina, lettuce and tomato, smeared with roasted garlic mayonnaise, and pressed until it cries "uncle," is terrific, especially with a giant order of crisp, Parmesan matchstick fries. Yes, lunch at Urbano is well-priced (panini are $6 to $6.50), but somehow dinner feels like even more of a bargain.</p><p>Main courses come two ways at dinner. You can order from the concise menu: dishes such as seared scallops over lemon risotto with Dijon cream ($17) or Cambozola-crusted petite tenderloin over roasted butternut squash hash with star anise demi-glace ($21). Or you can order from the blackboard. Choose a fish, chicken or meat, and a sauce to go with. </p><p>None are at all impressive (this is very simple cooking), but many are pretty good &mdash; that tenderloin or chicken, or duck breast seared medium-rare with that star anise demi-glace, for instance. Another weird thing: Vegetables are in short supply here, although Urbano is next door to Tom Spicer&rsquo;s produce shop F.M. 1410. Service is quirky and odd, too. Ask a question about a dish, and the waiter might just take a while to think about it. Unconventional service, yes, but somehow it didn&rsquo;t bother me.</p><p>Everyone&rsquo;s so nice, and this isn&rsquo;t the Ritz. </p><p><hr class="infobox-hr-separator" /> <div class="infobox"> <strong><span class="subhead">Urbano Cafe</span></strong></p><p> 1410 Fitzhugh Ave., Dallas</p><p> 214-823-8550</p><p><a href="http://www.urbanodallas.com">www.urbanodallas.com</a></p><p><strong> Hours: </strong>Lunch Monday-Saturday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; dinner Wednesday-Saturday 5 to 10 p.m. </p><p><strong> Essentials: </strong>Major credit cards; BYOB; wheelchair-accessible; no-smoking area</p><p></div>