Dinner wasn&rsquo;t off to the most promising start.</p><p>"Really? This is where we&rsquo;re eating tonight?" My houseguest, a visitor from the East Coast, was a bit alarmed early on Saturday evening as we pulled up to Ultimate Bar-B-Cue, a humble, 1960s-era fast-food building just south of Loop 820. No cars were about; in fact, the immediate hub of activity seemed to be the garden store next door.</p><p>But years of finding pleasant surprises within rehabbed takeout shops told me we might have a special dinner in store. The hunch proved good.</p><p>Ultimate Bar-B-Cue comes from owner Joseph Armstrong and is run by his cousin, George Kirkland, whose r&eacute;sum&eacute; includes working at beloved Dallas soul food/barbecue shop Sweet Georgia Brown. That should tell you that there&rsquo;s good food in the know-how.</p><p>Approaching the order counter and the menu posted above it, we were a bit overwhelmed. The list of options goes on and on, so only a veteran visitor could walk in and know precisely what to order. Pondering the options took some time: pork ribs, brisket, garlic sausage, smoked turkey? Chicken leg quarter, sandwiches, meat combo plates?</p><p>And then there are the choices to make among nine sides and seven desserts, to say nothing of sweet and unsweetened tea.</p><p>Having arrived an hour before closing, some of the choices were made for us. As with many barbecue places, Ultimate runs out of foods later in the day, because everything is made fresh in the morning and little is held over for the next day.</p><p>We pounced on the daily special, an ample plate of brisket with pork ribs ($8.99, with two sides) that would have easily satisfied two hungry people. Both chopped and sliced brisket proved flavorful and moist, even late in the day, as did massive, meaty pork ribs tinged with deep-smoke crust and flavor. Buttery slices of Texas toast were provided, too.</p><p>The accompanying sauce, a dark, thick, sweet variety, wasn&rsquo;t needed on the brisket and ribs but was welcome on thick slices of turkey ($7, with two sides). We dipped husky slices of dark garlic sausage ($7, with two sides) into the sauce, too, to get a balance of salty and slightly spicy with the sweet and tangy.</p><p>For the most part, sides ($2.50 if ordered separately) were pleasing. Mac and cheese was fresh, with lots of grated cheese. Coarsely cut, firm collard greens had a little bacon and sugar, and the baked beans, although very sweet, held pieces of chopped pork. Crunchy fried okra seemed fresh, and mustard potato salad was chunky. Letdowns were typical frozen french fries and corn-on-the-cob.</p><p>Sweet endings that we still talked about days later included handmade banana pudding and a pretty wedge of crunchy pecan pie ($2 each). Cream cheese poundcake and peach cobbler are among other favorites, we&rsquo;re told.</p><p>Prices at Ultimate impressed, with weekday specials providing a sandwich, chips and drink for $4.50. Otherwise, brisket, bologna and rib sandwiches are priced in the $5-$7 range and plates in the $6-$14 range. All meats are sold by the half-pound for $6 and $10-$11 for a pound.</p><p>If not just for the value, we&rsquo;ll also return for the friendly spirit that pervades this neat, tidy soul-food operation. We can visit with the congenial Kirkland while watching CNN or admiring Armstrong&rsquo;s beautiful aquarium.</p><p>Even my doubting houseguest came away tickled, now understanding the treasures that await in some unlikely packages.</p><p><hr class="infobox-hr-separator" /> <div class="infobox"> <strong><span class="infobox-head">Ultimate Bar-B-Cue </span></strong><br /> 5733 Crowley Road</p><p>Fort Worth</p><p>817-551-5300</p><p><strong>Hours: </strong>Open 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday</p><p><strong>Cuisine: </strong>Barbecue with soul-food influence</p><p><strong>Essentials: </strong>BYOB; smoke-free; major credit cards; wheelchair-accessible</p><p><strong>Entrees: </strong>$5-$14</p><p><strong>Signature dishes: </strong>Pork ribs, beef brisket, banana pudding</p><p><strong>Recommended for: </strong>A taste of the South</p><p><strong>Good to know: </strong>Some foods run out by evening; daily specials; to-go orders welcome.</p><p></div>