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closeWednesday, Jul. 29, 2009
Don't write off Tortilleria La Original de Zacatecas as just another pop-up taqueria
By JUNE NAYLOR
Special to dfw.com
The place: Tortilleria La Original de Zacatecas
The cuisine: Casual taqueria takeout
The draw: Taquerias, like doughnut shops, open in little shopping centers with such frequency that we hardly take notice anymore. But the danger lies in assuming that such proliferation must mean there’s nothing special to note, and that would be a mistake if the shop in question is Tortilleria La Original de Zacatecas.
A tidy four-table operation near the Ryan Place neighborhood, La Original wows with fresh products, flavor and accessibility. It’s the rare place where you can buy a cheap takeout meal that resonates with handmade goodness.
The food: Our first stop was for a breakfast burrito ($2.75), a plump flour-tortilla packed with huevos Mexicana. Scrambled eggs with chopped tomato, onion and jalapeño were layered atop refried beans. A roasted chile salsa came alongside but was hardly necessary, as the filling bore plenty of spice.
At lunch another day, a gordita ($1.99) featured a tender corn-tortilla pocket packed with pieces of sliced pork that had been simmered in green chile sauce with slices of sweet onion. This was plentiful and filling, but we couldn’t resist a taco with barbacoa ($1.75), a rich, roasted-beef indulgence. Chopped white onion and cilantro came alongside, as did the roasted chile salsa. A super-bubbly Topo Chico mineral water was the ideal drink on a hot afternoon.
Most customers pop in for takeout meals, and you can’t find a better take-home supper for the price. You can feed a family of four with the special ($10.99): A pound of meat — carnitas (shredded pork), lengua (calf’s tongue), asada (grilled beef), tripe, chorizo or ham — comes with a huge stack of warm, fresh, supple corn tortillas made on-site, a container of salsa and a 2-liter soft drink.
We loved the tender carnitas and asada (you can choose half and half) and found our choice of salsa, the creamy guacamole-green chile version, to be an ideal complement. We also bought an extra salsa ($1.75), a smooth, medium-hot variety the color of red brick, that played off the tart green variety easily.
The setting: It’s a cozy little operation with slightly more charm than a dry cleaner’s. The tortilla production takes up half of the front room, with the order counter at the center and refrigerator cases filled with drinks and salsas along another wall. Behind the counter, a kitchen turns out the simple, sublime food. You can cool your heels while watching telenovelas or Mexican music videos on TV.
The service: You order at the counter, where one or two staffers speak enough English to help you along. Take note that this is a small outfit and that each order is made carefully, which doesn’t mean quickly, so do arrive with plenty of patience. It’s worth the wait.
The details: Open 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 8 a.m.-6 p.m. Sunday. No bar. Cash only. Smoke-free. Wheelchair-accessible.
2725 Eighth Ave.
Fort Worth
817-926-1763
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