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Thursday, Aug. 28, 2008

Toughest Booking (But Worth It)

Fearing's, The Ritz-Carlton, Dallas

Chef Dear Fearing's eponymous restaurant admirably lives up to the hype.

Toughest Booking (But Overrated)

DFW.com

On most nights, chef Dean Fearing is on site at his eponymous restaurant and will likely make a stop at your table to say hello.

Find it: 2121 McKinney Ave, Dallas; 214.922.4848 www.fearingsrestaurant.com

The back story: Just the name alone would have guaranteed that Fearing’s was going to have a seriously long reservation list: Chef Dean Fearing, who built his reputation at the Mansion at Turtle Creek, is often spoken of in hushed and reverential tones among local foodies. But when Esquire magazine cited Fearing’s as the Best New Restaurant of 2007, it became even more difficult to land a seat here. Most impressive: Fearing’s actually lives up to the hype. Whether you are seated in the more elegant dining room or the hipper-than-thou section called “Dean’s Kitchen,” you’ll feel as if you’ve embarked upon a guided tour of the culinary Southwest, with service so thoughtful and attentive that you may never want to eat anywhere else.

Don’t leave without ordering: Fearing’s spin on surf-and-turf is a pan roasted “bbq spiced” filet and chicken fried Maine lobster -- a concoction that sounds preposterously over-the-top, but proves surprisingly subtle in execution. Another home run is the maple-black peppercorn soaked buffalo tenderloin, served on jalapeno grits unlike nothing your grandmother used to make.

"Another home run is the maple-black peppercorn soaked buffalo tenderloin, served on jalapeno grits like nothing your grandmother used to make."

You should know: The food here ain’t cheap. (Prices for both of those entrees hover near the $50 mark.) And if you’re looking for a prime time reservation on Friday or Saturday night, you should probably call at least two weeks in advance.

Honorable mentions: York Street, Dallas; Charlie Palmer's, Dallas

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