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closeWednesday, Aug. 27, 2008
Best Veggie Dish
Cauliflower gratin, Lambert’s, Fort Worth
Best veggie dish: Cauliflower gratin at Lambert's. Healthy? Probably not.
DFW.com
Owner-chef Louis Lambert throws in some cream cheese, goat cheese, and jack cheese into the cauliflower gratin.
Find it: 2731 White Settlement Rd., Fort Worth; ; 817-822-1161; www.lambertsfortworth.com
The dish: There’s probably about a pound of butter and a quart of whole milk in every dish, but then again, you’re getting that nutritiously sound cruciferous vegetable as part of the bargain. For good measure, owner-chef Louis Lambert also throws in some cream cheese, goat cheese, and jack cheese, too, and he mellows the whole thing out with a pinch of nutmeg and a couple pinches of cayenne. Your bitter childhood memories of being forced to clean your plate of dry, starchy califlower stalks before you could leave the table will be washed away in an instant.
Don't wander away without also trying: If you’re trying to be virtuous, the mustard-crusted sea bass with a side of haricots verts; it tastes like an indulgence minus the ultra-indulgent calories.
You should know: If you forget to make reservations, you might be able to snag a seat in the handsomely designed bar area and eat there.
Honorable mentions: Squash casserole, Highland Park Cafeteria, Dallas; Truffled mac and cheese, Nick & Sam’s, Dallas
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